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Routes in Earwax Wall

Antidote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domestic Violence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earwax T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killslug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raggedy Andy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Raggedy Anne S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sideshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slugshow S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Soul on Ice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Cynics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Baird & Max Dufford 90'
Page Views: 542 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ben Gilkison on Mar 9, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details


This brilliant route tackles the center portion of an 85 degree slab sandwiched between Biology of Small Appliances and Soul on Ice. Though I haven't tried the route as of yet, I did spend 5 hours on feb 2nd, 2014 scrubbing off a thick and tenacious layer of debris. Beneath all the detritus I found a farrago of perfectly sculpted holds. It is likely that Antidote saw one or two ascents back in 1990. Can't believe such a gem has been ignored for so many years.


Just left of the obvious arete at the far right of Earwax.




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Ben Gilkison  
A days worth of scrubbing on this route. It is ready to go! Let's bring on the 2nd ascent. Last year I mini'd all the moves. Great great route. But, the finish has some microscopic holds. Jan 14, 2015