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Routes in Earwax Wall

Antidote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domestic Violence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earwax T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killslug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raggedy Andy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Raggedy Anne S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sideshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slugshow S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Soul on Ice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Cynics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Baird & Max Dufford 90'
Page Views: 542 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ben Gilkison on Mar 9, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This brilliant route tackles the center portion of an 85 degree slab sandwiched between Biology of Small Appliances and Soul on Ice. Though I haven't tried the route as of yet, I did spend 5 hours on feb 2nd, 2014 scrubbing off a thick and tenacious layer of debris. Beneath all the detritus I found a farrago of perfectly sculpted holds. It is likely that Antidote saw one or two ascents back in 1990. Can't believe such a gem has been ignored for so many years.

Location

Just left of the obvious arete at the far right of Earwax.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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Ben Gilkison  
 
A days worth of scrubbing on this route. It is ready to go! Let's bring on the 2nd ascent. Last year I mini'd all the moves. Great great route. But, the finish has some microscopic holds. Jan 14, 2015