Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Outer Circle Ampitheatre

Addiction to Friction S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boo Yah S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Greg Huston
Page Views: 522 total · 10/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Mar 9, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Edit]

Addiction to Friction follows an obvious and aesthetic line along a right angling seam. This route is a bit of an anomaly in that it follows a feature and involves technical movement.

Start low and left of the first bolt on a pair of left-facing sidepulls. Big moves and good holds lead to a big horizontal crack. Some shouldery moves and a tough clip gain the slopey, left-facing ramp. Fight through the insecure barndoor moves, small feet and a hard toss to a good hold over a small roof. The last 10 feet of ATF is the steepest section with strange, angular holds and core intensive moves to a generous anchor jug in the middle of the roof. Too bad the rock quality deteriorates past this point...

Since the ground rises with the wall, this route requires an attentive belay. It misses four star status in my book because it leave a little to be desired- ending half way out the cave.

Location [Edit]

Look for a very obvious left facing ramp feature.

Protection [Edit]

Bolts. The last four bolts have fixed draws. BEWARE!!! The bolts on this climb look extremely rusty.

Photos

0 Comments

More About Addiction to Friction

Printer-Friendly