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Feed The Sweed

5.8, Sport, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 34 votes
FA: Anders Z., Dominic W., Chris M, Tony F.,
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 6 - Mid-Mountain > Barnum Rock
Access Issue: Fire Closure Details
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

This route is the next route right of The Bearded Lady. This is the only sport route that leads all the way to the top of Barnum Rock.

Pitch 1 / 60ft (5.8):

Start off on vertical face climbing which quickly leads to a small roof. Pull the small roof which puts you into the delicate crux section. Continue on easier climbing to anchors on top of pitch 1.

Pitch 1 is fun to do just as a single pitch if you don't wanna do or don't have time to do the whole route. It has mussy anchors to lower off

Pitch 2 / 60 ft (5.6):

The second pitches crux is the first two bolts. Climbing up and right through the crux to then hit easier terrain. Follow the bolts that roll out right and up to the second anchor on a large ledge.

Pitch 3 / 75 ft (5.8):

The last pitch leaves from the large ledge and makes its way through some beautiful rolling slabs. The end of the slabs is guarded by a small slightly overhanging crack that makes the crux of this pitch. Make the exposed crux moves through the crack and pull on to the upper clean slab. Look out left for the final bolts and moves. Some may want a belay from final anchor up and over short distance to flat area and large block below 3rd anchor (or all the way to the saddle).

Descent: Walk off to the North. Hike down hill along the west side of the wall to get back to the main wall area.


 Note: Rappel anchors off the back side have been chopped. Can either down climb to saddle (couple 3rd or 4th class moves, not too exposed) or belay first climber down from large block at flat area below the 3rd anchor.  Nice lunch spot by large boulder.

Location

This route is the next route right of The Bearded Lady.

Protection

Bolts, anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Don V. leading Feed the Sweed.
[Hide Photo] Don V. leading Feed the Sweed.
Yellow line shows nicest walk off of summit. Contour to RIGHT after saddle takes you to a climbers trail through pines rather than following the loose scree slope if you contour along Barnum rock proper
[Hide Photo] Yellow line shows nicest walk off of summit. Contour to RIGHT after saddle takes you to a climbers trail through pines rather than following the loose scree slope if you contour along Barnum rock p…
Possibly where the rap anchor used to be on the back side of the summit? The scramble down to the saddle is not too difficult without it.
[Hide Photo] Possibly where the rap anchor used to be on the back side of the summit? The scramble down to the saddle is not too difficult without it.
looking down at pitch 3
[Hide Photo] looking down at pitch 3
Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1
No rappel bolts anymore off of back of Barnum summit. Updating 6/21/19 picture of bare bolts (left pic on collage) to yesterday (right picture 7/16/19).  I was going to replace hardware, but bolts have been chopped and patched.
[Hide Photo] No rappel bolts anymore off of back of Barnum summit. Updating 6/21/19 picture of bare bolts (left pic on collage) to yesterday (right picture 7/16/19). I was going to replace hardware, but bolts…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.8
[Hide Comment] First pitch is really good and the last two are worth doing as it reminded me of Sheepshead. Good for the moderate team. If you know how to jam the finish is not the crux. Mar 24, 2014
[Hide Comment] Fun route. My partner and I found communication from the top to bottom of pitch 2 to be impossible. And pitch 3 has horrendous rope drag if you use standard quickdraws. Bring some extensions. Sep 14, 2014
[Hide Comment] - Spacious belay ledges for pitches 1 and 2
- Pitch 2 bolt path goes off to the right at about a 45 degree angle
- Hard to communicate from the pitch 2 belay ledge- just assume you won't be able to hear each other; and you cannot see the climbers below (nor can they see their belayer)
- Don't count on throwing the rope down to the climbers from the pitch 2 belay ledge: have everyone trail a rope up that is attached to the climber below on the pitch 1 belay ledge
- The pitch 3 crux (the crack) is where you will get rope drag if you don't use a long runner- but this is where you want it snug if you don't know the good holds are up on the left. If you want extra piece of mind, then you can reach up as high as you can in the crack and put a cam in- but with a long runner.
- There's still a little bit of unprotected climbing after pitch 3 (about 8 feet), then when you reach the top, slide down the slope carefully and walk off the left side (your back is to the Feed the Sweed route you just climbed up).
- This is a very nice multi-pitch climb: terrific views, muzzy anchors to make your belay anchor set-up simple, fairly easy 5.8 climbing (pitch 1 requires the most effort). Nov 21, 2014
wwm
 
[Hide Comment] You can rap off using a single 80m rope if you rap each pitch, which we did b/c I forgot to actually read the description before we climbed it. We left biners up there for this purpose.

Also, I think maybe its a good bit longer than in the description...we were almost at the ends of the rope (80m) on the rappel from the anchors to the 2nd belay station, and that's while rappelling straight down. From the 2nd belay station to the 1st, there was a little more rope left, but still I think the pitch is much longer than 60 feet. Fun easy multi pitch for my first 3 pitch lead!! Sep 18, 2016
Vyache G
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is great and lots of fun. The second and third pitches are worth doing for the view from the top as you can see all of Tucson as well as the beautiful San Pedro river valley, but there is hardly any actual climbing. Pitch 2 is more like a hike than a 5.6, and besides the one 5.8 move on pitch 3, the rest is ~5.5.

20 ft below the 2nd belay ledge is another very large ledge where you can see and easily communicate with your belayer at the top of pitch 1. One option to get around the difficult communication problem at the 2nd belay ledge is to clove into your anchor leaving yourself ~20 ft of slack between your harness and your clove, and then lowering yourself down the slack using a grigri until you reach the ledge where you can communicate with your belayer. The terrain here is very very easy and can be traversed without the grigri if you don't have one with you. Nov 12, 2016
[Hide Comment] We climbed on Feb. 4, 2017. P1 is about 5.7, P2 feels like 5.6 for only the first ten feet, the rest is about 5.1, P3 is about 5.7. Bring long slings for P3 as you may experience rope drag. Walk off is easier than rappel, as I have done both. If you use two 70 meter ropes, you can skip the P2 anchor and rappel from top all the way to THE tree with rappel anchor.

The view is fantastic. The route is south facing. Even there was a foot of snow on the ground, the climbing is warm and pleasant. Feb 4, 2017
[Hide Comment] This route is great for learning or teaching multi-pitch techniques. If you have two ropes it's an easy rap to the ground as the previous posts say. Pitch 3 is longer than stated so a rappel from P3 to P2 will leave you about 15' short if you have just one 60m. Either use the tree directly below the P2 anchors (maybe 50') or rap past it on the left side and use the chains for the lower routes. Tie knots in the end of your rope though, a 60m will just barely get you there.

If there are leaver biners or quick links on the upper pitches just leave them there for the next group to rap off. This route is used for multipitch SAR scenarios and it's nice not to have to leave links or non lockers every time it's used. Nov 29, 2017
Jacob Kennedy
Long Beach, CA
[Hide Comment] The description for this route has a note that says there is a rap anchor on the back side of the last pitch. I did a good amount of searching, and while I still may have missed it, it looked to me like the rap anchor on the back side may have been removed. I have posted a picture of of what looks like the two bolts where the rap anchor would have been. Even without the rap anchor, the scramble down was not too difficult. A little less than ten feet past the anchor at the top of the third pitch is one more bolt that can be used to get on top of the summit. Once on top, you can see the saddle on the back side that will be used for the walk off descent. When facing the saddle, I believe the easiest way down is to go to the right side of the summit rock and scramble down to the saddle (at the time of writing, there was a small tree growing where I scrambled down). You will then have to turn left to go up and over the saddle to walk back down to the base of the climb. Jun 28, 2019
Peter Underwood
Tucson
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Rappel anchor bolts pictured from 6/21/19 have been chopped and patched by someone (see before and after picture posted). I was going to replace hardware, but bolts no longer exist and I assume would disappear quickly again. That being said, even for this unroped-exposure-averse climber the downclimb to the saddle is not long or problematic for me. There would be options to belay someone down or sling big boulder or something if necessary to rappel the short trip to the saddle - I cannot see that rappelling the climbing route would be worth considering given reasonable hike off the back - lots of opportunities to get rope stuck. I do think that after you downclimb from back of summit and walk left over the saddle the best route to the base of the climb is to contour RIGHT just after the saddle and follow faint trail along a small rock outcropping until you make your way onto another climbers trail that heads down towards the base within pine trees and on reasonably comfortable trail down as opposed to the loose scree slope if you contour left after the saddle along Barnum rock to get back to the base (see yellow descent route on picture - loosely shows descent route). Quite a pleasant climb - with many easy sections in between climbing on upper 2 pitches. Great summit area. Jul 17, 2019
Anders Zway
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Late to the party here, haven’t been on MP in forever. Anyone know who chopped the anchors? Or does anyone wanna fess up? Nov 9, 2019
Andrew Leader
Bellevue, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Pitches/climb are longer than the description (attempted to link all three with a 70 and had to simul the last 50 feet). Pitch 2 is probably more like 90' and pitch 3 is more like 80'. Probably 280' total.

You can easily link P1-2 (even with a 60). Just bring some alpines, drag wasn't bad and climbing on P2 is so easy.

Radios strongly recommended, highway is loud and ledges block communication.

I'd recommend bringing shoes for the walk off. It's short (10-15 mins) but dirty. Scramble off the top is class 3 tops, but a bit exposed. Jan 4, 2021