Type: Ice, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,570 total · 25/month
Shared By: RKM on Mar 5, 2014
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Solo up as high as you dare, then probably 3 long pitches with the last lead being the crux. Pick the best ice, but you should end up on the right side on top.

Location

The approach to this climb is a full on hike. Even will little snow or a beaten path - it is a long way up to the climb. Makes for a full day.

Park just over 5 miles south of the river crossing (junction with hwy 11) where a drainage comes down and under the road. Walk up this drainage until it is better to move north into the trees. This is a long hike and if fresh snow - could take hours

Others suggested that it could be windy on top. Correct!!

We found gale force and sustained winds when topping out - enough that we could hardly stand up and could not communicate except with sign language. Not a place to be searching around for the rap anchors very long.

Protection

Screws, probably more square feet of ice on this singular falls than all the ice in Provo Canyon put together. It is huge and thick.

Photos

Vikram Sahney
Seattle, WA
 
Vikram Sahney   Seattle, WA
 
Video of a variation on Murchinson Falls, on a route called But My Daddy's a Psycho which shares the same final pitch and descent.


youtu.be/lJXaOCxRGD4 Aug 28, 2016
Ryan Pfleger
North Lake Tahoe, CA
Ryan Pfleger   North Lake Tahoe, CA
So good! it was an all day affair, so bring your headlamp if you are feeling slow. We did it with double 60m ropes, but 70m would have been very helpful especially around the 2nd to last pitch. Even with double 60m we were able to get from the top bolted anchor, to the next one down and then hit a v-thread to the huge snowy shelf and then bolted anchor to the ground. Mar 9, 2019