Type: Ice, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Trevor Jones & Tom Whittaker; 1997
Page Views: 5,120 total · 39/month
Shared By: RKM on Mar 5, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

CLIMB 280m

1st pitch 60m  - WI2 and snow

2nd pitch 60m - WI3

3rd pitch 40m - WI4

4th pitch 50m - WI 4+

5th pitch 70m - WI 4+

RAPPEL 

1st 60m - bolts

2nd 50m - v thread

3rd 60m - bolts

4th 30m - v thread (or down climb on snow)

5th 40m - v thread 

**Please use naked threads whenever possible**

Location Suggest change

The approach to this climb is a full on hike. Even will little snow or a beaten path - it is a long way up to the climb. Makes for a full day.

The final bit of the approach after leaving the treeline when you go up the snow slope to the actual start of the falls is an avalanche run-out (coming down from climber's right) take appropriate precautions for the current conditions.

Park just over 5 miles south of the river crossing (junction with hwy 11) where a drainage comes down and under the road. Walk up this drainage until it is better to move north into the trees. This is a long hike and if fresh snow - could take hours

Others suggested that it could be windy on top. Correct!!

We found gale force and sustained winds when topping out - enough that we could hardly stand up and could not communicate except with sign language. Not a place to be searching around for the rap anchors very long.

Protection Suggest change

Screws, probably more square feet of ice on this singular falls than all the ice in Provo Canyon put together. It is huge and thick.

Photos

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