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Routes in Mount Murchison

Balfour Wall, The WI2
But My Daddy's a Psycho T WI5
Murchison Falls WI4-5
Virtual Reality T WI6
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 864 total, 19/month
Shared By: RKM on Mar 5, 2014
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

Solo up as high as you dare, then probably 3 long pitches with the last lead being the crux. Pick the best ice, but you should end up on the right side on top.

Location

The approach to this climb is a full on hike. Even will little snow or a beaten path - it is a long way up to the climb. Makes for a full day.

Park just over 5 miles south of the river crossing (junction with hwy 11) where a drainage comes down and under the road. Walk up this drainage until it is better to move north into the trees. This is a long hike and if fresh snow - could take hours

Others suggested that it could be windy on top. Correct!!

We found gale force and sustained winds when topping out - enough that we could hardly stand up and could not communicate except with sign language. Not a place to be searching around for the rap anchors very long.

Protection

Screws, probably more square feet of ice on this singular falls than all the ice in Provo Canyon put together. It is huge and thick.
Vikram Sahney
Seattle, WA
 
Vikram Sahney   Seattle, WA
 
Video of a variation on Murchinson Falls, on a route called But My Daddy's a Psycho which shares the same final pitch and descent.


youtu.be/lJXaOCxRGD4 Aug 28, 2016