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Routes in Devil's Kitchen

1st Corner T WI4+
2nd Corner WI4
3rd Corner WI4-
Bridal Veil Falls T,TR WI3-4
Dream a Little Dream T WI4+ M8
Plattekill Falls WI3
Purgatory T,S WI5- M5
Smear TR WI4+ M6-
Snotcicle WI3+
Tiers of Joy T WI4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 726 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jeffrey Dunn on Mar 4, 2014
Admins: Jeffrey Dunn

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Description

Dream a Little Dream is an excellent mixed route that starts with some thin edging and gains some good hooks in a right trending corner. At the top you need to go left and break through a roof. The move to establish yourself above the roof is the definitive crux. The guidebook shows the climbing finishing out left but, conditions depending, the route may more naturally traverse right onto ice and to the top.

Location

On the left side of Devil's Kitchen, past the easier shorter ice flows and underneath a sizable curtain.

Protection

5? bolts to ice. Stubbies to the top.

Photos

I've been told that a big chunk of rock came off high on this route, and it's climbing closer to M8 now. (Admin - Thanks for the update. Lets keep an eye out and see if M8 stays the new consensus.) Feb 5, 2016