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Routes in Devil's Kitchen

1st Corner T WI4+
2nd Corner WI4
3rd Corner WI4-
Bridal Veil Falls T,TR WI3-4
Dream a Little Dream T WI4+ M8
Plattekill Falls WI3
Purgatory T,S WI5- M5
Smear TR WI4+ M6-
Snotcicle WI3+
Tiers of Joy T WI4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 80 ft
FA: Joe Szot
Page Views: 1,300 total, 29/month
Shared By: Jeffrey Dunn on Mar 4, 2014
Admins: Jeffrey Dunn

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Description

Purgatory is one of the mega classic routes in the Catskills, and more generally, the northeast. Adirondack legend Joe Szot put up this route ground up on trad gear in a 3+ hour lead. His staunch trad ethic was not enough to stop this route from being subsequently bolted. Although it no longer offers the experience that Joe had on the first ascent, it still can be found in compelling conditions that make for a proud day.

The route climbs moderate ice to a notch/corner where bolts protect what can be a tricky, but short series of mixed moves. Depending on ice conditions, you can expect to get some steep ice moves as you angle up and left to the second notch. Above this you will get a lesson in climbing vertical ice to the two bolt anchor at the top.

Please respect the route and be considerate of those who would like to lead by limiting toprope traffic.

Location

One of the last ice lines on the steep left wall in the lower Kitchen. Look for the two notches and bolts.

Protection

Screws off the ground, bolts in the middle and near the top. Stubby's up high when conditions are such that your "livin easy".

Photos

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