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Cell Block
5.13a,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 17
votes
FA: unknown
California
> Sonora Pass Hig…
> Jailhouse Rock
Access Issue: LOCK THE GATE. Private property with access easement held by Access Fund allowing climbing.
Details
LOCK THE GATE! Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions.
For the current gate code and rules, visit
accessfund.org/capabilities… Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include:
- No dogs on the property
- Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road
- No loud music
- No fires
- No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity
- Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown
- No littering
In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting.
Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement.
Description
A nice crack takes you up the column with a few off balance moves to reach the third bolt. You can step right to clip up and catch a no hands rest. Fire through the awkward roof, either with power or kneebars to a pair of good holds.
Make a large reach to a large block out right. Climb on progressively smaller crimps culminating with a difficult move to the "Pentagon" hold. Work up and left on bigger holds to a good rest (left pad helpful).
Get it all back and start up on the final crux. Work through the "Football" and the "Baby's Butt" and finally make the bump to a glorious right hand jug.
From here rest up and execute some easier but long reaches to the top. The anchors can be hard to clip.
The extension, Birdman of Alcatraz, goes through the wild roof above and is supposed to be quite fun!
Location
Cell Block is in the middle of the main wall to the right of the trees. It is located between Electric Chair and Alcatraz.
Protection
All draws are fixed. 10ish bolts total
[Hide Photo] The route goes up the line of hanging perma draws in the center of the photo.
Tennessee
Todd Graham, Cell Block, .13a, mid-90s May 3, 2025