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Really Sweet

5.7, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 33 votes
FA: unknown
Idaho > S Idaho > Castle Rocks > E Sector > Fence Line
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Location

Towards the right side of Fenceline Rock if looking at it from the Taco area. This route is just to the right of a huge right facing corner. It climbs up a bit of slab and then some cool looking patina.

Description

This is one of the easiest bolted climbs at Castle, and it's quality too. 5 bolts to chain anchors on a big ledge. Great place to take kids or beginners. It makes a good warmup if you're headed up to The Taco or Comp Rock too.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Really Sweet in relation to The Taco and The Heffalump. Pic Credit: Brian in SLC<br>
I'm guessing this was taken from Bracksiecks pillar
[Hide Photo] Really Sweet in relation to The Taco and The Heffalump. Pic Credit: Brian in SLC I'm guessing this was taken from Bracksiecks pillar
Beginning of Really Sweet.
[Hide Photo] Beginning of Really Sweet.
RP is Really Sweet
[Hide Photo] RP is Really Sweet

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

rging
Salt Lake City, Ut
 
[Hide Comment] Climb 10 feet to the left with gear. Much more interesting rock and easy to protect. Harder than Really Sweet by a half grade. May 14, 2016
Scott Morris
Bountiful, UT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] A good-sized snake was waiting for me at the final ledge directly below the anchors partially tucked into the crack. Fortunately it wasn't a rattler (possibly a gopher snake?) and didn't move while I tenuously threaded the chains. May 6, 2018
[Hide Comment] This route is really about 65 feet long. The bolts are well-camouflaged. Sep 27, 2019
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID
 
[Hide Comment] Correct, closer to 70 feet long and closer to 5.8 with small crimps. And, that snake story scares me to death Scott. May 28, 2020
Old lady H
Boise, ID
[Hide Comment] No snake late September 2020! I was on top rope, milling around that whole face, and I would add that the left side has a lot of moss and lichen now. Doesn't look much climbed. There's a big stick nest in the chimney, and some really handsome alpine plants too. Up top, way to the right, it's a jugfest! Oct 21, 2020
D DLK
 
[Hide Comment] Nice route in scenic location of the park. Used small cam and nut to augment protection. Now for the surprise: encountered a large snake - about 4’ long! - basking at the top while on lead. Conveniently located between the edge and the anchors at the top. Could not immediately confirm it was not a rattlesnake since its tail was in a crack. Head did not look like a viper and it eventually moved to reveal a rattle free tail. Decided it was bull/gopher snake which looks similar. After some cajoling got it to move off to climbers left. So believing problem solved, the person seconding the route went right-and encountered a large snake. So we figured it was just moving around. The third person up in our party, a biologist, encountered snake 1 and snake 2 and then spotted 5 more snakes in various cracks bringing a total of 7. They were of two types, bull snakes and rosy boas as we later identified. Other than 7 snakes at the top it was a good climb May 21, 2023
Shad O'Neel
Boise, ID
 
[Hide Comment] This route felt harder to me than many at castle. Especially the last bolt seems a little run out for a beginner. Really good edges and footwork though, great route. No snakes, june 2023. We climbed Patina Pie first to see if the ledge was crawling with snakes. Jun 25, 2023