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Hob Knob 'in (aka Butt Cold & Crazy)

5.6 PG13, Trad, Sport, 105 ft (32 m),  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: Chapman & Neal
California > Los Angeles Basin > Angeles Nationa… > Texas Canyon > Pangea Wall (or Panga…
Warning Access Issue: 1. RAIN & WET ROCK 2. DANGER OF EROSION DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Nest above Tethys DetailsDrop down

Description

"Butt Cold & Crazy" begins below the cave, 20 ft left of the start of Tethys, with a powerful, unprotected, bouldery start. From the large recess or cave, under the overhang, undercling the upper lip of the cave and climb the right leaning seam above. Continue bouldering through the cave to a 4" diameter hole and a long reach to the thank god inclusion on the left, and higher, two bomber pockets on the right (left of the seam). Once established above the cave, clip the 1st bolt and traverse up and left across the knob infested and lichen covered face to the right side of a very large square block. Continue climbing on amazing knobs (avoiding the lichen) up and slightly left to the anchor, amongst a cluster of large inclusions.
An easier (5.6) alternative start begins on "Tethys," by clipping that routes 1st bolt and traverses left, tying off a knob, and continuing left to the 3rd bolt of "Butt Cold & Crazy."

Location

Right side (west) of the Pangea Wall. Same beginning as Tethys, but traverse left after the 1st bolt.

Protection

Direct start (5.10+) 10 bolts & 2-ring Fixe anchor.
Moderate (5.6) start: 12 bolts (shared 1st bolt with "Tethys,") and 2-ring Fixe anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rappelling off "Hob Knob 'in"
[Hide Photo] Rappelling off "Hob Knob 'in"
Thank God pockets on the direct start to "Hob Knob 'In."
[Hide Photo] Thank God pockets on the direct start to "Hob Knob 'In."
That wall is knobbier than a herd of toads with a case of warts.
[Hide Photo] That wall is knobbier than a herd of toads with a case of warts.
Having a good day on "Hob Knob 'in."
[Hide Photo] Having a good day on "Hob Knob 'in."
Knob testing on "Hob Knob 'in."
[Hide Photo] Knob testing on "Hob Knob 'in."