Type: Trad, Sport, 105 ft (32 m)
FA: Chapman & Neal
Page Views: 1,417 total · 11/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Mar 1, 2014
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 1. RAIN & WET ROCK 2. DANGER OF EROSION DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Nest above Tethys DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

"Butt Cold & Crazy" begins below the cave, 20 ft left of the start of Tethys, with a powerful, unprotected, bouldery start. From the large recess or cave, under the overhang, undercling the upper lip of the cave and climb the right leaning seam above. Continue bouldering through the cave to a 4" diameter hole and a long reach to the thank god inclusion on the left, and higher, two bomber pockets on the right (left of the seam). Once established above the cave, clip the 1st bolt and traverse up and left across the knob infested and lichen covered face to the right side of a very large square block. Continue climbing on amazing knobs (avoiding the lichen) up and slightly left to the anchor, amongst a cluster of large inclusions.
An easier (5.6) alternative start begins on "Tethys," by clipping that routes 1st bolt and traverses left, tying off a knob, and continuing left to the 3rd bolt of "Butt Cold & Crazy."

Location Suggest change

Right side (west) of the Pangea Wall. Same beginning as Tethys, but traverse left after the 1st bolt.

Protection Suggest change

Direct start (5.10+) 10 bolts & 2-ring Fixe anchor.
Moderate (5.6) start: 12 bolts (shared 1st bolt with "Tethys,") and 2-ring Fixe anchor.

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