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Routes in Center/Headwall

Black Castle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Center Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Commander, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diamond of San Diego S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right as Rain T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sole Purpose S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Storm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tears of Envy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Chris Hubbard, Joshua Reinig, Brian Spiewak
Page Views: 1,003 total · 20/month
Shared By: bspiewak on Mar 1, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route climbs through the center of the Wedge by combining existing pitches of moderate difficulty that lead to the easiest, yet spectacular exit out of the headwall.

Climbed onsight under the threat of an incoming winter storm, the weather held and everything was Right as Rain.

There are various other ways to reach the headwall pitch, some of which even offer better climbing, but I'll leave those for you to figure out. The route I describe here maintains the right trending nature of the line while taking advantage of comfortable belay ledges throughout the climb. It's also a good way to move your days supplies up into the wall and crag off these ledges.

The route begins under Triton Tower while the rappels drop you to the east under the middle of the wall.

See the Beta photos for reference.

Pitch 1. From the ground beneath Triton Tower begin up the broken corner to the right. At the second tree, to your left is a large detached flake. Don't be the one to pull it off onto you and your partner. Find pro up and right then climb back left, only needing to tip toe across the top of the flake. It's not that bad, just not something you wanna dislodge. Stay in the corner or step left to clip the last two bolts of Sole Purpose (extend your rope well through here). Avoid using the large spike of rock wedged into the top of the corner. Skip the bolted anchor above the spike as well, and continue up the corner above for about 10'. The corner becomes a roof and arches out left (Dual Purpose). Leave the corner here by stepping out to the right and climb straight up to a bolt in a scabby grey face. The bolt protects the 10' 5.6 traverse to the right, into the Storm corner. Curse the grass while getting established, and then climb straight up the corner (crux) onto the left end of Not so Grassy Ledge. Belay here to remain in sight of your partner, or clip the bolt atop the corner as a directional and walk down and right 30', to the right most bolted anchor along Not so Grassy Ledge. 5.9 200'

Pitch 2: This climbs the 2nd pitch of Supply Line. Off the far right end of Not so Grassy three routes begin off this anchor. The right most line of bolts is Thunder, left of that Supply Line P2, and Randall Handle left of that. Follow the bolted corner of Supply Line above. When the bolts end, stay low and traverse to the right onto the Command Center ledge. 5.8 90'

Pitch 3: This pitch climbs the first pitch of P.O.W. and continues up and right a long ways, traversing easy leadge systems high across the wall. Straight above the middle of the Command Center are two pitons that protect getting into the finger crack. The crack fades into the face above, past an occassional bolt and looks to breach the small roof above out to the left. Over the roof is an anchor up and left (Black Castle belay), extend this double length and continue up the ramp to the right. Twenty feet up the ramp you'll encounter a pair of fat Metolius hangers on a red sloping ledge (Diamond P5 belay). Continue to the right and up onto the next ledge. Continue past the bolted anchor with no rap rings, and belay 10' further right at the bolted anchor/rappel station. You should be directly below the large white bird shit stain. 175' 5.9

Pitch 4: If you intend to rappel to get down, leave what you want here at this anchor. A small cam to the left protects the belay as you get established on the ledge above the belay. Avoid trying to pro anything else up and left. The good rock and pro you want is tall up to the right. Pro these cracks well as they protect the crux move above the belay here. I dare say the crux may not be harder than 5.9, but I'll leave it at .10- for now. Follow up the crack to the traverse right, then back left after the only bolt on the pitch. In the corner above the bolt look for the finger crack that cuts left across the wall, this drops you onto the final belay ledge. 95' 5.10-

Rappel back to the last belay ledge, and straight down the wall below you.


Singles to 3". Long slings. Bolted belays.



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