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Routes in Windy Corner

Hazards of Love , The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hungry Man T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where Goats Do Roam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
White Dinosaur S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris Williams, Lang Van Dommelen
Page Views: 111 total, 2/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Feb 27, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Four pitches of fun, spicy rock climbing that gives the climber fun exposure.

Pitch 1: 5.6. From the one bolt belay climb up and left towards a roof, climb under the roof to a big belay ledge with a two bolt anchor. 75ft, gear to .75 in.

Pitch 2: 5.8. From the belay ledge carefully climb over the bulge, one 5.8 move. once above the bulge climb through spicy 5.7 and 5.8 moves on the slab, watch out for the death block on the left, although rock is better on the left is generally better. Sparse gear leads to a two bolt anchor on a green prow right. 110ft, gear to 4 inches.

Pitch 3: 5.5. This is pitch is lame. one 5.5 move take you to a some class 4 to a bolted belay on the left. 100ft.

Pitch 4: 5.8. The money pitch! From the anchor, climb slightly left to a short crack, place some gear here. Climb the face through some good stopper placements to a large slung boulder with a rap ring. 100ft. Gear to 1 inch.

The adventurous can take the route to the top through the goat fields making it either a walk (head right) or climb direct from the anchor, there are many short faces and fun boulder problems to be had. To descend, rappel the line, although in high winds finding a walk off might be a wise idea.

Location

From the parking lot hike the access path to the Johnson trail at the trail marker at around 100ft from the parking lot, take a side trail right and scramble up and left, until you reach the Old Johnson trail, follow a nice path to the right, you'll pass past the tunnel, and just past that you might see the climb "Hungry Man" 5.11b, keep walking until you begin to see potential access trails on the left. Just before you get to the end of the rock, and just before a short wall with a good boulder problem before the path would lead into the woods, scramble towards a tree and trend right into a small gully. Look to the right left for a single bolt at the base of a leftwards leaning slab.

Protection

Full trad rack to 4", Slings. Bolted Anchors, Rap with a single 70m rope.

Photos

Kevin Downie  
 
Pitch 1 and 3 seemed to be mostly a scramble, questionable whether a rope is needed. Pulling the roof at the start of pitch two(5.7-) is on ribbed, sharp, chossy rock. It is easier to ascend left of this belay onto the ramp, but the rock is so sharp and loose it might be better to try to the right of the belay. The 4th pitch seems to me to be an easy 5.7 and rock quality is still marginal even by Turnagain arm standards.

We descended the route up and around to the right of the final pitch rather than rappelling. It was a pleasant hike down the gully with a beautiful little waterfall. Mid summer, this descent might be a nightmare with undergrowth. May 6, 2015