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Routes in Swagrocrag

Fish Taco T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oblivious Old Man Route, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Mendenhall's half-cyborg son XXXPLRRPRPT 66 and his buddy, Clyde.
Page Views: 686 total · 14/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Feb 25, 2014
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is pretty rad. The rock quality is superb! It's like climbing at Tahquitz back in the day, as there are some loose rocks, but nothing's gonna kill ya (unless you're stupid).

The route starts up a cool slanting crack on the southwest side of the formation. It traverses left for about 100ft or so best guess to a sort of a ledge above that really neat looking pine tree. It's smart to belay from here so communication isn't tiring. Next pitch goes up these two cool finger cracks to some really good holds and lower-angle terrain. It's a cool ridge scramble from there. Belay is best closest to the hillside, so the second can walk off easy.

This route was a lot of fun. Can't always say that about other San Gabe first whatevers.

Location

Follow the directions for this crag, taking the southern gully down. The route will be on your right, and will be obvious from the photos.

Protection

A single rack with some tiny cams is good. Easy pro throughout. Probably just dandy with a 50m rope, but we used a 70 as that was our lightest rope.

Photos

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