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Routes in Pine River

Flag Mountain Falls T WI4-5
Granite Peak Smear T WI3-4
Type: Trad, Ice, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Miles N. and partner?
Page Views: 534 total, 12/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Feb 24, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private Property Details

Description

This is the large, two-tiered waterfall off to the east of the trail. It comes down a western aspect near Flag Mountain. Anyone who has hiked the Pine River trail out to the Pope's Nose has seen it. It is a really fun ice climb in a remote and scenic location.

P1 & P2 climb the lower falls. It is about 300' in total. There are trees all along the right side for anchors and this section can be broken up as desired. We did it in one long pitch with an 80m rope and some simul-climbing. (WI3/4)

From the top of the lower falls, follow the creek bed (about 5 minutes) to the upper falls.

P3 - Climb moderate ice to a nice stance at the base of the final pillar on the right (~100', WI3).

P4 - Climb steep ice for maybe 40m, then about 20m of lower-angle ice to some trees. (200', WI4/5)

Descent - Rappel the route using trees and/or v-threads.

Location

Follow the Pine River trail for about 9 miles. Flag Mountain Falls will be obvious off to the right (east). Find a nice place to cross the river and continue straight to the ice.


Protection

Screws.
-mn
-mn  
A friend and I climbed this in the '90s, during one of the dry winters. We walked in there with our tennies and bivied under a large spruce tree. Don't remember much except leading the last pitch with a broken tool. A nice spot in the winter - moose, solitude, Pope's Nose just north.... - miles Mar 1, 2014