Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Drew Spaulding, Mark Miner, Julie Peterson- Sept.'97
Page Views: 1,345 total · 15/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Feb 22, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Wildlife Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1- 5.9 fists in a left-facing corner lead up and right through a 5.10 squeeze to a larger 5.9 chimney. Continue up the chimney through a tunnel and up onto a large ledge at the base of an incredible 90' #2-2 1/2 friend splitter going out of view...(150')

Pitch 2- After 90' of straight-in, straight-up thin hands(5.11b/c),the crack changes into an arching rightward dihedral with perfect hand jams(5.10+), leading to fingers and a blonde ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.(120') Incredible Pitch!!!

Pitch 3- Step left on the blonde ledge from the anchor into an acute left-facing corner. Chubby hands leads up through a triangular roof into a magnificent splitter face crack. About 60' in this crack(5.10b) until it gains,,, NOTE!!! NEW FINISHING VARIATION TO PITCH 3!!! DO NOT CLIMB LEFT, CLIMB RIGHT UP THE RAMPING CORNER!!! (ORIGINAL FINISH-,,, face climb left and onto a ledge, and then climb the left-facing system(5.9+) leads to the large summit ledge.) CLIMB RIGHTWARD UP THE MODERATELY, RAMPING CORNER TO IT'S TOP. AIMING FOR THE "CHOCOLATE CHIMNEY", STEM UP TO THE "DIVING BOARD" FEATURE AND ENTER THE OBVIOUS CHIMNEY. CONTINUE UP THE CORNER SYSTEM TO THE 2-BOLT ANCHOR WITH CHAINS AT IT'S TOP! MUCH BETTER AND MORE DIRECT FINISH THAT THE ORIGINAL PATH!(120')

Pitch 4- Step up to the walk-off ledge above. Climb the first obvious left-facing corner starting with a thin hands crack. This corner is beautiful and brings you to the true summit of the Rim 80 meters from the truck/camp.(5.9+ 75 feet) 2-bolt anchor with chains mark the top of this 4-pitch route!

New finish to pitch 3 and pitch 4,,, Scott Lee, Drew Spaulding Nov. 20th, 2020

Protection

Full desert rack-thin to large 4½", Extra 2-2½" cams! 5-6 Red camalot's for 2nd pitch. Extra 3-3½ camalots for pitch 3.

Photos