Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Drew Spaulding, Mark Miner, Julie Peterson- Sept.'97
Page Views: 673 total · 11/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Feb 22, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Pitch 1- 5.9 fists in a left-facing corner lead up and right through a 5.10 squeeze to a larger 5.9 chimney. Continue up the chimney through a tunnel and up onto a large ledge at the base of an incredible 90' #2-2 1/2 friend splitter going out of view...(150')

Pitch 2- After 90' of straight-in, straight-up thin hands(5.11b/c),the crack changes into an arching rightward dihedral with perfect hand jams(5.10+), leading to fingers and a blonde ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.(120') Incredible Pitch!!!

Pitch 3- Step left on a blonde ledge from the anchor into an acute left-facing corner. Chubby hands leads up through a triangular roof into a magnificent splitter face crack. About 80' in this crack(5.10b) until it peters out. Here, face climb left and onto a ledge, and then climb the left-facing system(5.9+) leads to the large summit ledge. Traverse the ledge rightward back to the solo which leads to the rim.(140')


Full desert rack-thin to large, Extra 2-1/2" friends! Red camalot's too small and yellow camalots are too big


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greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
red camalots seemed to work fine. 4 or 5 should do Nov 4, 2015
Kat A
Boulder, CO
Kat A   Boulder, CO
We used the following rack: 1 blue alien, 2 green aliens, 1-2 yellow aliens, 2-3 #0.5, 3-4 #0.75, 4-5 #1, 3-4 #2, 3-4 #3 , 3 #4 , 1 #5, 1 #6 (new Camalot sizes). As mentioned in the prior comment, red camalots work well on P2. Mar 11, 2018
Dana Prosser
Dana Prosser   Boulder
Pitch 3 beta above I a little bit misleading....the chubby hands splitter is only 40-50ft ft, followed by a traverse straight left 10ft to a shallow sandy dihedral (This dihedral has some very sandy white rock). Make good use of long slings or you will have horrible rope drag like I did...at the top of the dihedral I found a 2 bolt anchor, but you have to climb an additional 10-15 ft higher to reach the walk of ledge. Good route! Mar 12, 2018
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
Weird that you found a 2-bolt anchor there Dana,,? The only bolted anchor we had placed was on top of the splitter pitch. What did you think about that 2nd pitch??!! I remember it was pretty tough for my sized hands. Mar 12, 2018