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Routes in Beehive Wall

Dirty Rotten Whore S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Erin's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hedonistic Urges S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Moammar No Amore S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Super Yummy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Matt Twyman, Erin Murdock
Page Views: 390 total, 8/month
Shared By: kinz Davis on Feb 21, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

cool route with interesting finish through dihedral and subsequent bulge

Location

furthest route on right

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

Matt Seigel
Austin, TX
  5.10b PG13
Matt Seigel   Austin, TX
  5.10b PG13
It looks like the beta picture by Tyler is actually for a 5.10b to the left of the 5.9+. The 5.9+ starts on some ledges from what I understand has some pretty tricky moves to it. I'd call it a 5.10b myself but I'm not the best climber. Right after the 5.9+ the wall in unmaintained.

Climbed both routes tonight and there is some over growth. Feb 21, 2017
Tyler Garrett
Dallas, TX
 
Tyler Garrett   Dallas, TX
 
If you climb this route straight up, it is easily the hardest 5.9 on the greenbelt. Stick clip the first clip and I wouldn't say I felt overly committed to get clips in. Over all it's worth a visit and tear drop the route to the left for a tough run.

They call it a 5.10, hopefully you can figure out better beta. I had to do this super high heel hook (I'm 6'1 so it's high), lock off on this terrible pinch/sidepull, both feet barn doored to stay on then I had to put my feet on these microfeet holds and throw to the ledge... it took me 5 trys to figure out how to get past the first clip, so yes stick clip would help if you're looking to sport it. Pretty insane bouldery start for a 5.10b rating as the guide book says. Before the feet came off here's the shot.
Mar 18, 2014