Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 926 total · 13/month
Shared By: matt carpenter on Feb 18, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The last pitch is the money pitch; If it were closer to the ground it would get climbed everyday. However you have to do some scary runout face climbing on pitch 3 to get to it. All in all it is a fun journey right next to one of the busiest routes in Red Rock

This is how I climbed it :

Pitch 1 : "Delicately" climb the crunchy face just up and left of Cat in the Hat; which I don't recommend as the few gear placements you will find are not that great. This pitch is also known as the 1st pitch of "the Grinch" or "Cat in the Phat". A better option is to climb the 1st pitch of Cat in the Hat to the large ledge to 3 bolts; skipping the bolt first anchor.

Pitch 2 : 5.7 (200'+) Climb the nice looking handcrack 15' left of the anchor. Follow crack to beautiful low angle dihedral to a ledge passing a scrub oak with old slings. Continue scrambling past another small tree and then up face on the right to another small ledge with scrub oak and more webbing. Gear anchor in thin crack, small nuts and blue or black alien.

Pitch 3 : 5.8 (120') The somewhat scary runout pitch. Find your way up and left on the face to a traversing ledge. Keep calm and climb on, the face maybe a little heady but it is never really that hard. Build anchor at the start of the amazing crack.

Pitch 4 : 5.7 (60') The reason you climbed this route in the first place. Jam the 2-4" crack in the dihedral to a ledge below a chimney; face holds out left make climbing easier. Sling tree for anchor. I climbed the chimney for another pitch; but unless you plan on finding your way to the summit i recommend rapping from here.

Descent

Descent : 2 full double 60m rope rappels and then some scrabbing we leading you right back to your backs. Watch your ends on your ends of the rope on the first rap. Second rap is off a not so confidence inspiring slung boulder. Bring extra webbing and quick link to back up or replace any old worn webbing.

Protection

Standard rack, including tiny nuts and aliens, doubles in BD #2-3, optional 4.

Photos

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