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> (10) Pine Creek…
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> Southeast Buttress
Unknown (Thing 1)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Southeast Buttress
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Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Lightning-Rod Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,667 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | matt carpenter on Feb 18, 2014 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The last pitch is the money pitch; If it were closer to the ground it would get climbed everyday. However you have to do some scary runout face climbing on pitch 3 to get to it. All in all it is a fun journey right next to one of the busiest routes in Red Rock
This is how I climbed it :
Pitch 1 : "Delicately" climb the crunchy face just up and left of Cat in the Hat; which I don't recommend as the few gear placements you will find are not that great. This pitch is also known as the 1st pitch of "the Grinch" or "Cat in the Phat". A better option is to climb the 1st pitch of Cat in the Hat to the large ledge to 3 bolts; skipping the bolt first anchor.
Pitch 2 : 5.7 (200'+) Climb the nice looking handcrack 15' left of the anchor. Follow crack to beautiful low angle dihedral to a ledge passing a scrub oak with old slings. Continue scrambling past another small tree and then up face on the right to another small ledge with scrub oak and more webbing. Gear anchor in thin crack, small nuts and blue or black alien.
Pitch 3 : 5.8 (120') The somewhat scary runout pitch. Find your way up and left on the face to a traversing ledge. Keep calm and climb on, the face maybe a little heady but it is never really that hard. Build anchor at the start of the amazing crack.
Pitch 4 : 5.7 (60') The reason you climbed this route in the first place. Jam the 2-4" crack in the dihedral to a ledge below a chimney; face holds out left make climbing easier. Sling tree for anchor. I climbed the chimney for another pitch; but unless you plan on finding your way to the summit i recommend rapping from here.
This is how I climbed it :
Pitch 1 : "Delicately" climb the crunchy face just up and left of Cat in the Hat; which I don't recommend as the few gear placements you will find are not that great. This pitch is also known as the 1st pitch of "the Grinch" or "Cat in the Phat". A better option is to climb the 1st pitch of Cat in the Hat to the large ledge to 3 bolts; skipping the bolt first anchor.
Pitch 2 : 5.7 (200'+) Climb the nice looking handcrack 15' left of the anchor. Follow crack to beautiful low angle dihedral to a ledge passing a scrub oak with old slings. Continue scrambling past another small tree and then up face on the right to another small ledge with scrub oak and more webbing. Gear anchor in thin crack, small nuts and blue or black alien.
Pitch 3 : 5.8 (120') The somewhat scary runout pitch. Find your way up and left on the face to a traversing ledge. Keep calm and climb on, the face maybe a little heady but it is never really that hard. Build anchor at the start of the amazing crack.
Pitch 4 : 5.7 (60') The reason you climbed this route in the first place. Jam the 2-4" crack in the dihedral to a ledge below a chimney; face holds out left make climbing easier. Sling tree for anchor. I climbed the chimney for another pitch; but unless you plan on finding your way to the summit i recommend rapping from here.
Descent
Descent : 2 full double 60m rope rappels and then some scrabbing we leading you right back to your backs. Watch your ends on your ends of the rope on the first rap. Second rap is off a not so confidence inspiring slung boulder. Bring extra webbing and quick link to back up or replace any old worn webbing.
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