Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||926 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||matt carpenter on Feb 18, 2014|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
This is how I climbed it :
Pitch 1 : "Delicately" climb the crunchy face just up and left of Cat in the Hat; which I don't recommend as the few gear placements you will find are not that great. This pitch is also known as the 1st pitch of "the Grinch" or "Cat in the Phat". A better option is to climb the 1st pitch of Cat in the Hat to the large ledge to 3 bolts; skipping the bolt first anchor.
Pitch 2 : 5.7 (200'+) Climb the nice looking handcrack 15' left of the anchor. Follow crack to beautiful low angle dihedral to a ledge passing a scrub oak with old slings. Continue scrambling past another small tree and then up face on the right to another small ledge with scrub oak and more webbing. Gear anchor in thin crack, small nuts and blue or black alien.
Pitch 3 : 5.8 (120') The somewhat scary runout pitch. Find your way up and left on the face to a traversing ledge. Keep calm and climb on, the face maybe a little heady but it is never really that hard. Build anchor at the start of the amazing crack.
Pitch 4 : 5.7 (60') The reason you climbed this route in the first place. Jam the 2-4" crack in the dihedral to a ledge below a chimney; face holds out left make climbing easier. Sling tree for anchor. I climbed the chimney for another pitch; but unless you plan on finding your way to the summit i recommend rapping from here.