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Routes in Paul's Backyard

Annie Get Your Gun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
De Ham Bone S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dress Rehearsal T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gun Rail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guns and Roses S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Haf & Haf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul's Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sling-a-Ding-Ding T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slingshot Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Pete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted Shread T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (aka 'Bittersweet Feet') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Filthy Peter') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Platy Galore') S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Unknown 10b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: FA. R. Behrens & D. Daly (Feb 16, 2014)
Page Views: 826 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Feb 18, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start just below a somewhat large broken flake/hole and work your way up to the first bolt. Make a few intermediate moves to reach the second bolt. From here (the crux), rocker up and latch onto the "rail" above on the thin patina plate. Continue to work up, moving slighty right then back left to reach bigger holds. Clip the 3rd and final bolt...you're home free!

Protection

- (3) bolts
- Anchors bolts equipped with rings

Location

This fine addition to Paul's Paradise is located on the north facing end, 10 feet left of the bolted route called 'Unknown' (5.9). Additionally, it can be identified by five bullet holes near the first bolt.

Photos

butters
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.9
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.9
5.9 crux was solid for the grade. great climb! May 21, 2014
munge  
I'm curious if anyone else has comments on it?

I need to get back out this way soon. Jan 19, 2015
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
Went back a few weeks ago and did all of the routes on the north side of Paul's, including the route to the right of Gun Rail (which, in the Bishop guidebook, is 5.9). Gun Rail is more sustained than the route to the right (which has an opening move that might check in at soft 5.9). I'd consider bumping Gun Rail's rating to 5.9+/.10a. Mar 26, 2015
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
Okay, if I understand this area correctly, I see three routes, left to right: "Gun Rail," "North Face," and "Unknown." I'd rate these 10a, 5.8, 5.9. All worth doing, btw. Apr 23, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
Well, to update, currently from left to right: "Annie Get Your Gun" (5.7+), "Guns & Roses" (5.8), "Top Gun" (5.10a), "Gun Rail" (5.9), "North Face" (5.8), and "Unknown" (5.9), and "Haf & Haf" (5.7). Aug 18, 2015
JC w KC redux
  5.10a
JC w KC redux  
  5.10a
Dave and Rob - Brad and I led this over the weekend (3-26-16) and Kat followed it. We all agreed that the crux was 10a and some of the hand holds are really small and sharp!
I really liked the route. It made me pause for quite a while figuring it out. Getting to the first bolt is also spicy - it looks just a bit higher than bolt 1 on the North Face - nice addition to the wall. Mar 29, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Tricky and sharp if you read the line wrong. Not too bad if you hit it with a good sequence. Apr 16, 2017

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