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Routes in Land of a Thousand Boulders

Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 757 total, 17/month
Shared By: bheller on Feb 16, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

An incredibly gymnastic problem! Start at a crouch with both hands matched on an incut angular jug under the boulder. Get your feet on and do a big move to a sloper with your left hand. Now the fun begins! Bump the sloper to a better dish/jug and attempt to get both feet matched with double toe-hooks in the dish! Let loose of the starting jug with your right hand and now unhook your feet and spin around right-side up. Next establish higher above the roof using the incut horizontals and work you way up a few crimps and edges to the exciting slopey top out. (As will all Triassic top-outs, you may want to identify and brush the top out holds pre-send!)

Location

Pass through the corridor to the left of Busted Up (the obvious v5 arete). The Hucklebuck will be on your right as you immerse from the squeeze corridor. It is on the same boulder as Busted up. Multiple ways down, with the easiest being to down -chimney the aforementioned corridor.

Protection

A couple of pads and a spotter- typical sandy and slopey triassic top-out.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Thanks for setting the record straight Darren:) Apr 29, 2014
I called the problem. Out Of The Comfort Zone

One of my favorite problems that I put up at Triassic. It was sent while The Utah Bouldering Guide was at the press, so it didn't make it in the book.
(Probably, 50% of the problems we did there never made the book. We put up another 100+ problems in The Land of a Thousand Boulders alone, after the guidebook came out, due to Mike Call casually mentioning that "there could be 200 more problems here at Land of a Thousand Boulders!" When he said that, it shocked Baldwin and I, and we set to work the next month to see if it was possible.)

My beta was a little different. From the exact same start I also went with my left hand and bumped to the better part. Next, I would loosen my core tension and let my butt sag in order to stop the swing. I cut my right hand and matched on the jug but with a twist. My back would now be facing the boulder with my feet hanging in the air. From there I would spin around again put my feet on and boulder to the top. (I had just learned this spin around move from Steven Jeffrey the day before when he sent Dynosaur.)
We did do your upside-down foot match on another problem in The Land That Time Forgot called Pterodactyl (V8).
Psyched you liked the problem! Apr 29, 2014
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
I named this knowing full well the FA probably belongs to some Provo dude's girlfriend. If you know the details let me know...

I really enjoyed this thing and wanted to share it! Feb 16, 2014