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Ya Shoulda' Killed Me Last Year
5.11c,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 16
votes
FA: Lewis & Berman
California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Inner Gorge
> Staying Power Towers
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Almost anywhere else I would be bummed to find such a nice crack bolted but this fun route fits right in at the Gorge. A difficult move(crux for me) gets you to the second bolt(don't miss the strenuous clip here as the first bolt is kinda low). A hidden hand jam allows for a bit of a rest before a short tight hands section gets you to the third bolt. Easer climbing along the crack leads to a small roof. Strenuous moves and a big reach get you up and over the roof. Easier but pumpy climbing up the just off vertical face to the anchor.
Location
Protection
9 bolts
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Marty's guide shows he crux 11c getting past the roof. For me the hardest move was getting to and clipping the second bolt. Missing the clip here will likely land you on the ledge below. After the second bolt those with good crack climbing skills will find the middle section of this route easier and less strenuous. Feb 16, 2014