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Routes in (9) Above the Waves

BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Matt Robertson, 11/2004 (trad)
Page Views: 215 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Feb 16, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Either pull bouldery, unprotected moves through the low overhang, or step up the dihedral to the left. Move into the right-leaning hand crack through the overhanging orange wall. Find painful jams to get you up to a few positive horizontals. Plug your last piece and gun it through the sidepulls and crimps to the ledge jugs. Knees are okay for the finish.

Location

Below the Gold Wall, just before you step up to routes likes Great Pumpkin and Snake Alley

Protection

Gear to 2"
Titanium anchors (2016)

Photos

BrianWS  
He traversed right along the belay ledge and downclimbed one of the 5.singledigit routes nearby. It was pretty heroic - he spent a good bit of time debating whether or not it was a good ideas in the first place. Very weixian, indeed. Feb 17, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
How did he get back down? Feb 17, 2014
BrianWS  
This line was allegedly bolted before Matt's recorded ascent, and I'm sure the FFA has been disputed by Taiwanese climbers.

I did, however, witness Matt on what is surely the route's first solo ascent. That was a pretty ballsy endeavor... Feb 16, 2014