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Routes in Whitesides (ice)

East Face: Chrystal Garden WI4 M4
East Face: Cinderella T WI5-
East Face: Pinocchio T WI4+
East Face: The Smear T WI4 R
Junior T WI4 R
Mother Russia T WI5-
Practice Slabs TR WI2-3
Scotch on the rocks WI2-3
Starshine WI4
Three Stooges Gulley WI3
West Face Wall WI2-3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, 1000 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 602 total, 13/month
Shared By: Morrismc on Feb 12, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

While I haven't climbed this whole route, I met a climber from Atlanta who described it as a classic in the art of "Rhododendroneering." The route appears to be long and is a mix of lower angle ice with some walking and then steeper pitches that could probably be climbed with a rope or soloed.

The final step is just to hikers right when approaching Starshine.


I encourage others to post in the comments more beta and I will update this page.

Location

200 m before the turn off to Starshine. Obvious double log creek crossing, look to your right and you'll see the final pitch of the route.

Protection

Assorted screws. Medium length probably most useful if formed up thick.

The top pitch can easily be rigged as a top rope by walking around from climbers left, plenty of trees to anchor off.

Photos

Morrismc
Portland, Or
 
Morrismc   Portland, Or
 
Looks like a pitch to me. Jan 13, 2017
Ummm, yeah. The last pitch shown here was climbed many times by climbers going into Starshine in the '80s and I presume earlier. The 'Three Stooges gully' below there was climbed sometime in the early 2000s and is basically a walk up a frozen creek. Four of us had climbed the 2 pitch frozen waterfall down in the valley that you can see from the top of Starshine (worth doing, requires much cold weather) when someone suggested 'climbing' out by the creek. I declined, hiking directly out to the parking lot and beer, thinking the creek would be as interesting as mud. Nothing I've heard since changes that opinion. Didn't know they had claimed this short waterfall as the top pitch, but, whatever. Jan 13, 2017