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Routes in Janes Wall

Been Caught Stealin' S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Doctor's Orders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Half Baked S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Idiots Rule S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jay Smith Appreciation Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Keep It Gutta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mannish Boys S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Naked and Disfigured S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pigs in Zen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Playing Hooky S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
See Dick Fly S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shenaniganery T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
What's left of the sport. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: KH, NP, KJ, RB
Page Views: 699 total, 15/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Feb 11, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A fun chunk of varnish I spotted while checking out the new lines on the smaller of the two Jane's walls. Some powerful moves but the rock quality, movement, and positive holds on this one are really good. The name derives from a combination of one of Janes's Addiction's best songs and some mild controversy about the FA.

Location

Takes steep dark rock between Mannish Boys and the two 10s on the right. Begin by laybacking up a corner on hollow rock.

Protection

4 Stainless bolts and hangers, all placed on lead, no hooks, no chalk, no previewing, no bullshit (til after the FA, anyway) Stainless ring anchor hangers up top allow a more pleasant finish to the leftmost of the two 5.10s to the right of the route as well, avoiding the odd and awkward traverse that I've seen people swearing on.

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There is a route called stealin' at Janes wall it takes off from every mother's nightmare
I did it in the 90's with the others..... Sep 12, 2016
Andrew Yasso
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11
Andrew Yasso   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11
Bit of a squeeze but worthwhile at that. Think there are still some holds down low that may pop in time (especially if someone gets on it after a rain). I think 5.11- is more of a redpoint grade than an onsight grade, as the key hold isn't super obvious. Fun. Feb 9, 2015
There has been a furious swarm of emailing about the FA of this ground-up line lately. If the folks who ignored the red tag, which admittedly I should have taken down when I finished the route (who knew anyone was making the hike to Jane's Wall lately?) want to contact me and have a laugh about all the nonsense over a beer, here's your open invitation. I'll even buy a beer for Larry if he wants to show up like the wizard of oz popping out from behind the curtain of his laptop. Feb 17, 2014