[Hide Comment] This route is fun b/c it's varied. I recommend stick clipping first bolt as it’s a boulder start and it starts on top of rocks. I felt like this was the crux of the climb. Bomber first hold on the right. Getting to the 2nd bolt is fine. Clipping the 3rd bolt is really awkward using a pincher or sloper hold. Downclimb and move out right. Use big sidepull to sidepull to great ledge. Catch your breath. For the 4th bolt above the ledge, use an alpine draw b/c a regular quickdraw might sit on the edge of the rock and cause the gate to open (although I think this will only happen after clipping the 5th bolt). Great resting on the ledge. Then in the open book clip the last bolt getting feet up a bit. The crack is unnecessary, even though it looks cool. Then move over left on seemingly untouched rock that is high friction with easy climbing to the anchor. This was harder and more physical than 5.11a Killer Lob. However, it is a chossy route that doesn't get climbed much; loose rock will rain down on the belayer. Neither my partner nor I thought there was decking potential at the 3rd bolt as the book & description above states. Oct 8, 2018

[Hide Comment] Seems like there'd be potential for a really cool (and hard) direct variation to this that stayed on the face the whole way, rather than moving right to the ledge and the open-book corner. Oct 11, 2021

[Hide Comment] stick clip or beware, the first bolt has been removed/chopped. one move wonder of a climb, not worth it anyway Feb 17, 2022