Avg: 3 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Dr. R.H. Forbes & Sr. Lorenzo Montoya, 1898|
|Page Views:||2,915 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Hans Schenk on Feb 10, 2014|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
From the saddle of Thomas Canyon, head southwest up to the prominent notch.
Pitch 1: This pitch ascends the chimney with a chockstone. The pro is sparse, but the climbing is not difficult. There are two belay bolts at the top of this 40 foot pitch. From the top, hike along the rock wall on your left to the south about 100 yards to a nice west-facing slab.
Pitch 2: Climb the slab directly following the meager crack for 150 feet. The crack will take some small to medium cams, and nuts. The climbing is easy and a bit runout near the top. Belay at the two belay bolts. From the belay, hike right (south) and bushwhack through an oak forest for about 100 feet to get to the base of the third pitch.
Pitch 3: This is the famous Ladder Pitch. It is approximately 120 feet in length. When I climbed the route, there were two 1/4 inch bolts, two brackets I had to sling, the first 25 feet were unprotected, and the belay/rappel was the trunk of a tree. Apparently the 1/4 inch bolts have been replaced, and there are belay/rappel bolts at the top of the pitch now.
From the top of Pitch 3, head right (west), then turn south. Climb a short rock with a chockstone. Then follow the vague hiking trails up the gully, through the oaks, and eventually to the summit. Be careful when you exit the gully, and when you are routefinding on the way down. The oaks can hide the edge of the cliffs!
For descent, just retrace your steps and rappel all three pitches.
When I did this, I brought 2 ropes (for the rappels) when standard rope length was 50m. Now you could probably get away with a single 60m or 70m rope. Just watch the ends (knots). For pro: small to medium cams, nuts, slings. There are a couple spots that take Tri-cams so consider bringing a few of the smaller sizes.