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Unknown 5.6

5.7, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 38 votes
FA: Old School - late 1970's
Arizona > Southern Arizona > La Milagrosa Ca… > Main Wall

Description

This dihedral climb protects well, with mostly no-hands clipping stances. Fun stemming leads to hand jams and jugs. Some loose/hollow-sounding rocks, but nothing too scary. The final 10 feet are overhanging with beautiful jugs.

Location

This crack is in the dihedral just left of the first three bolt lines encountered at the Main Wall. Starts on a ledge, and leads up to an overhang with chains on the left side.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3" will more than cover your needs. There is a "fixed" cam halfway up. Chains with new bolts at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown 5.6 (February 2014)
[Hide Photo] Unknown 5.6 (February 2014)
Unknown 5.6 (February 2014)
[Hide Photo] Unknown 5.6 (February 2014)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Nelson
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Really fun climb, but I feel that there are some moves that require a bit more thought and care than a 5.6 would normally require. This climb is a bit steep, but you really just have to watch your feet (it's almost all stemming). May 19, 2014
AlexW
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun climb that takes great gear all the way. There are actually two fixed cams on this route and while it would take up to a #3 Camalot you can sew this thing up with just a set of stoppers. Would make a great first trad lead. Jan 23, 2016
Susanne R
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] This definitely feels a bit more difficult than a 5.6 . Nonetheless, great route to do! Mar 9, 2019
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I am going to take the liberty of naming this since I free soloed it today. If anyone knows the first ascensionist's name for this, please change it to that... Jun 25, 2020
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Physical/Exposed. Excellent moderate stemming and jamming in a rare (for our area...) continuous crack/corner system. Positive hands with occasional short sections of small-ish feet. Jun 25, 2020
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Loose stuff at the bottom and top. The climbing is great but the choss made it feel spooky. Doublecheck everything before you trust it and have your belayer wear a helmet. Nov 27, 2023