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Routes in Shamu Area

Baby Signs V0 4
Balance or Power V6 7A
Bashista Yo Sista V5 6C
Capacitator V7 7A+
Choppy V6 7A
Decepticon V3 6A
Free Time V7 7A+
Heaven V8 7B
Help Meat V3+ 6A+
Josh in the Box V5-6 6C+
Knuckles of Evil V7 7A+
Overlord V2 5+
Pet Goat V0 4
Shamoo V5 6C
Shamoo Dihedral V4 6B
Sneaker Crack V0- 4- R
Talking to Myself V1+ 5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: Joel Torretti 2000-2002
Page Views: 655 total, 14/month
Shared By: skinny legs and all on Feb 7, 2014
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

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Description

Balance or Power is one of Dr. Torretti's top ten contributions to Mt. Gretna, and that is saying a lot. He has put up many of the best problems-especially the technical ones- (like 50-100) in this main area and at the surrounding satellite areas.

The climb begins sitting or crouching with hands on a large hold on the left end of the boulder. Some people will do a kind of standing start but with hands still on the hold. For full value, start sitting. Mantel this hold and reach up with the left hand to a huge sloper on a bulge. Slap around on this large feature and lean way right to grab a crimpy, inset seam which shoots straight right for ten feet. Getting established with both hands on the seam from the basketball sloper is probably the most difficult individual move, but every following move requires nearly similar exertion. Tick tac right along the crimpy seam with zero footholds. Your feet will be pawing on a steep wall for worthless smears with your butt out. After a handful of moves, you will have gained the right side of the boulder where you can mantel on a sloping lip.

Joel used to make this problem look graceful, and I made it look thrutchy. So the question is: balance, or power?

Location

Balance or Power is on the boulder that shares it's name. This is the only problem on the large boulder. To locate it, walk uphill from Shamoo a few hundred yards. There is probably not an obvious trail leading to the boulder. A local might be needed to find it without you getting frustrated and bushwhacking. The side the problem is on faces downhill. The boulder is kind of isolated and on it's own.

Protection

Two pads and a spotter would be prudent. There are vines around the boulder, and if I remember correctly, a rock in the landing midway across the seam traverse.

Photos

dbick  
There's a trail that goes up to this problem now. Go left instead of right at the split towards the Shamoo area and head towards Forgotten, you'll see the trail split again when Forgotten is in your sights, head right and it'll take you to this problem. Apr 3, 2015
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
 
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
 
Sorry for the misleading information on locating the boulder. There was never a stick shelter when I was climbing at Mt. Gretna. I did my best to describe the directions to the problem. Dec 15, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I second what Tim said. If you walk straight uphill from 'Shamoo" you will never find this problem. Go left and a bit up until you see the obvious stick shelter and this is just uphill, you will be able to see it from the shelter. Nov 9, 2014
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
The best way to find this is walk up to Shamoo. When standing infront of Shamoo walk left and slightly up for about 100 yards, its way more left than it is up. Continue until you see a large stick shelter and/or house. When you reach the shelter look up hill and this problem is situated above a collection of rock. Nov 9, 2014