PRINT: Rock Climb Never-Never Crack, Central-East Cascades, Wenatchee, & Leavenworth

Never-Never Crack

5.13a, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
FA: Todd Skinner
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Givler's & Magi… > Givler's Dome

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.

A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.

In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.

Description

It is possible that this route has only seen 2 redpoint ascents in the last 30 years. To my knowledge, Todd worked on this route for a week or two before completing the FFA. And, I've been told that he graded it merely 12d because at the time, some of his other routes had been downgraded. This route is likely 13a which would make this Washington State's first in the 5.13 grade. Never Never is much better led than Top roped. It is simply too steep. Love that this climb starts with two side ways fist jams. Classic.

Location

Just to the left of Bondage.

Protection

widgets.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Andrew Philbin working his way up.

Todd Skinner on Never-Never Crack (5.13a), Givler's Dome<br>
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Photo by Mike Jakubal

Todd Skinner on Never-Never Crack (5.13a), Givler's Dome Photo by Mike Jakubal

Can't see the crack from this angle but gives an idea of how steep it is.

The crack overhangs at about a 45 degree angle