Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Aaron Black, Colin Dionne, Victor Ting, Kris Wild
Page Views: 6,639 total · 54/month
Shared By: Jason Addy on Feb 6, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Warning Access Issue: Logging Roads - Restricted Access DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Amazing crack climbing in a very secluded spot. Leads to some slab climbing with sparse bolts (5.10-). Route finding and easier sections near the top.

Location Suggest change

New Access

From the campground, follow Goat Lake Main to the end; stay right at Dianne branch junction, stay left at D-branch junction. 4x4 required: water bars, creek crossing, landslide path. Watch out for large holes in the road... Before too long you'll reach a clearing, and an ATV trail leading to a bridge over a river.
The trail turnoff is on the right, shortly after the bridge. Follow flagging (mostly pink) up through the forest, generally along the southwest ridge - eventually you'll meandering through stunning old growth forest. You'll reach large boulders around ~1000m elevation, the trail veers right here. There is some misleading flagging that continues directly uphill (if you start following orange, you've gone too far). Trail eventually crosses a large gulley; shortly after this you'll reach Camp Radagast, and then the base of the wall. Traverse the base of the wall for 500m. The route is obvious when you see it.

Old access... (nightmare)
Follow D-branch to a major fork about a mile up from the mainline. Take the left fork, which leads across the bridge to the north side of the D-branch valley, continue up a long water-barred grade until a major gully stops further vehicular access. From your truck begin hiking up the road, after about ½ mile the road forks back to the west. Follow this deactivated spur to its terminus close to the east-end of Amon Rudh. Head up and left through the slash into the old growth forest, continue up and left until it is possible to traverse across to some large boulders in the forest, descend into the gully below the wall. A faint trail leads from the top of the major waterfall through the forest to the start of on the Virg. Approach takes about three hours from the truck.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to 3", extra slings and rings for rappel, 2 x 60m ropes.