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Routes in Amon Rûdh

On the Virg T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Aaron Black, Colin Dionne, Victor Ting, Kris Wild
Page Views: 580 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jason Addy on Feb 6, 2014
Admins: Kate Lynn

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2 Opinions

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Logging Roads - Restricted Access Details

Description

Amazing crack climbing in a very secluded spot. Leads to some slab climbing with sparse bolts (5.10-). Route finding and easier sections near the top.

Location

Take the Eldred Valley Mainline to where is crosses D-Branch River (draining Mount Alfred glacier). From here follow flagging (seen across the river on the right side of the road) up to the route through stunning old growth forest.

Old access... (nightmare)
Follow D-branch to a major fork about a mile up from the mainline. Take the left fork, which leads across the bridge to the north side of the D-branch valley, continue up a long water-barred grade until a major gully stops further vehicular access. From your truck begin hiking up the road, after about ½ mile the road forks back to the west. Follow this deactivated spur to its terminus close to the east-end of Amon Rudh. Head up and left through the slash into the old growth forest, continue up and left until it is possible to traverse across to some large boulders in the forest, descend into the gully below the wall. A faint trail leads from the top of the major waterfall through the forest to the start of on the Virg. Approach takes about three hours from the truck.

Protection

Standard rack to 3", extra slings and rings for rappel, 2 x 60m ropes.

Photos

Chris Winter
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
  5.10-
Beautiful route in a wild location. We needed a 4x4 to get to the trailhead. The approach took just under two hours to a bivy at the base of Amon Rudh. The climbing was fun and engaging with incredible views of the Eldred. It took about 9 hours camp-to-camp.

All anchors and bolts are in good shape. We replaced the tat on top with some new cord. Jul 20, 2017
EJG
EJG  
On the virg is classic!!!!!!!!! Must do for those looking for adventure. Amon is a truly incredible wall Jun 28, 2016