A First Time For Everything
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0087, -116.0098 |
| FA: | Seth Pettit and Danner Bradshaw Feb. 5, 2014 |
| Page Views: | 1,248 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Seth Pettit on Feb 4, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The first half of the climb is traversing and a little pumpy. Start on Jugs at the base of the crack system that splits the brown wall diagonally. Follow the crack up and left placing gear along the way. Begin the crux sequence at your last piece of gear, move up and clip the first bolt from a nice hand rail, then pull the second crux moving left on to the slab. Cruise the nice sculpted and varnished slab past four more bolts to a bolted belay/rappel station above "Road Dogs".
Location
Begin in the boulders at the base of Becky's Buttress, ten feet left of, and slightly down hill from, the route Becky's Buttress (5.9).



0 Comments