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Brain Damage
5.9+,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
FA: Dan McCool, Britt Bassett, and Brad Esser, 1982
Colorado
> Durango
> Pine River Trad
> Pope's Nose
Introduction
Brain Damage was the warm-up, first ascent for the Arizona party that also put up
Thunder Road. It took two days to complete because of storms.
Daniel McCool wrote about this route in
Summit Magazine but left out the names of his friends. Perhaps this lost information will be found now that this route is posted on Mountainproject.
Route Description
On the right hand apron of Pope's Nose, there is a "long, narrow pillar resting against the face". Like a Yosemite pinnacle, there are classic jam cracks on each side of the pillar. The Arizona party split into two teams and climbed both sides calling it: "160 feet of the finest 5.9 jamming and liebacking we'd seen in awhile".
Above the pillar, the second pitch is the crux (5.9+). Last, a moderate third pitch leads to the top and Fern Gully descent.
Protection
Rack.
Pagosa Springs, CO
The left side crack (P1) is approx. 40 meters of beautiful off-vertical stemming and liebacking. Bring some new webbing for the anchors. Jun 29, 2015