PRINT: Rock Climb Pipe Dreams, Lake Tahoe

Pipe Dreams

5.11c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 10 votes
FA: Steve Montesanto
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Auburn & Grass… > Auburn SRA > Cave Valley (ak… > Patio

Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.

Description

Similar to Therapy Session but a bit harder and longer. Bouldery crux getting to the first bolt (stick clipped). As you climb past the bolt use the undercling pocket where a metal pipe was and climb to the jugs out left. A couple of cool 5.10 sections dot the middle of the climb. Then a bit of an endurance crux at the end finishing with another exciting mantle onto the patio just before the anchors.

Location

Located to the right of Therapy Session. Start to the right of the vertical rock rib that extends down to the ground.

Protection

6 bolts to mussy hooks at the anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Montesanto

5.11b

I believe the stick clip is appropriate for the first bolt due to the particular height of hard moves off the ground. I also found the rock quality a bit suspect for a potential lower bolt placement. I donated an extra stick clip pole for the climb that hopefully doesn't get stolen....it is located at the base of the climb. Also note there is a slight runnout to the 2nd bolt but the climbing is easy. Feb 3, 2014

Kelley Gilleran
Meadow Vista

5.11b

Sustained with cryptic beta. Super fun climb though I dug using the runnel. Skipped the undercling pocket with the pipe. Your donated stick clip is still present. Afternoon shade to boot! Mar 8, 2014