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Routes in Valdez Glacier Campground

Columbine Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon's Teeth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungle Boogie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Days S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monarchy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mosquito Mission S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Nibblen' No-see-ums S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Floss Necessary S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route number 2 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route number 3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route number 4 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route number 5 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route number 6 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route number 7 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sail Cat S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shits and Giggles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trim the Bush S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 1 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wet Finish S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 65 ft
FA: Mike Weber
Page Views: 314 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Jan 31, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

This was the first route put up on the cliff and takes the best line up the center of the face. The original route starts on the rusty bolt that is also used for Trim The Bush. An alternate start is the more direct clip to the left. Follow good holds and low angle climbing to the vertical, steep finish. If the route is going to be top roped, bring webbing for the anchor to reduce rope drag. It is best to rap the route rather than lowering to save wear and tear on your gear.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor.

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10a
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10a
Excellent climbing made worse by loose holds. May 27, 2014
Originally graded as 5.9. Would be pretty soft for 5.10b Aug 23, 2015
Rusty bolt was replaced, came out super easy! Use the direct start option mentioned in the route description. New bolt was placed more in line with "Trim The Bush". Should also help with spacing these lines out a bit. Mar 31, 2016
Nick Weicht
Valdez, AK
 
Nick Weicht   Valdez, AK
 
Thanks Mike, stoked to clip the new bolt. Apr 8, 2016

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