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Gnar-Gnar

5.10+, Trad, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
FA: Tom Ogden
California > Northwest Calif… > So-So Grotto > Main Wall

Description

Best trad route in the Humboldt area? 140 feet of goodness...airy, steep, and relentless. Starts on an obvious flake system in the middle of the wall. Traverse up and right on the flake for ~40', to the first crux bulge. Route is mostly hands after this point, with another bulge crux about 2/3 of the way up. Bring ALOT of long runners.

Location

Due to the traversing nature of the route, you won't end up anywhere near the start if lowering off. To clean, either set up a gear anchor and belay from the top, or tie two ropes together and belay from the ground (although you'll have to pass the knot). Belaying from the top is probably the more straightforward option.

Protection

Gear to 3". Heavy on the .5" to 2". Depending on your comfort level, I would recommend up to 4 each of .5, .75, 1, and 2 sizes. Starting flake takes smaller gear. Chain anchors at top. 2 ropes to get off.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bo on the finishing hand crack of Gnar-Gnar. The route comes in from the left, behind and below the tree.
[Hide Photo] Bo on the finishing hand crack of Gnar-Gnar. The route comes in from the left, behind and below the tree.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lurk Er
Truckee, CA
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Kind of a sandbag at .10c...more like .11a. But Tom is kind of a sandbagger! Apr 12, 2014
Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] "But Tom is kind of a sandbagger!"
+1

he's the kind of dude whose grades are just all over the place. takes one to know one.
regardless, he crushes pretty hard, which is I guess all that matters. Apr 12, 2014
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] What is the bolted line that goes up a overhanging flake and up to chains at the midpoint of Gnar-Gnar?? Apr 17, 2016
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Great route, needs more traffic! Warning, lots of info! I'd bring a double rack from blue Metolius to a 3, with 4 red camalots, lots of thin hands... nuts also useful. Bring a runner for every piece you place, and a few double length ones would not go unused. I got shut down by rope drag about 30 ft below the anchor because I clipped a couple pieces short through the crux bulge, luckily there is a great ledge so I built an anchor and belayed from there, I was also concerned about falling on the ledge if you pitched off the finishing handcrack, very possible with pump and rope drag... The intermediate belay could be an option if you only have standard double rack. Either way, I think belaying from a gear anchor on top is the way to go, the rope stretch from using the two rope, passing the knot technique could be a bit of a problem if the second fell in the first 20 ft of the route. Apr 18, 2016