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Routes in Big Ben Tower

South Face Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 78 total · 1/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jan 28, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A fun crack up a little tower. The crux is the roof move after the slab on the first pitch.
2nd pitch starts wide right off the belay, maybe 5.9, then mostly 5.8 hand crack. After the big ledge and bush there are a couple of options. I went straight up a over hanging crack, maybe 5.9.
I would give this 3 stars but it was pretty dirty.

Location [Suggest Change]

Starts at the very lowest toe of buttress , sort of inside corner, steep blocky, then low angle and old bolt on slab traversing left to gain the chimney where the 2nd pitch goes. There is a good belay pedestal after pulling the roof move. There is an old 1/4" star drive anchor at the top of the tower, rap down back side(north).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Gear to 4". Double up with 1"- 3" cams

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