Right Toilet Bowl Crack
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 116 votes
Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 8,347 total · 63/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jan 28, 2014 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Description
Awesome easy trad. Great intro to Zion climbing for beginners of trad and multi pitch. Is in the shade till 2PM in the summer.
pitch 1) Climb a short ow off the ground into hands entering a chimney. Exit the chimney on hands up a 40 foot corner that pinches down toward the end. This pitch feels more 5.10 to me. 2 bolt belay.
pitch 2) Hands and big hands all the way. 2 bolt belay.
pitch 3) Climb a 6" ow for 10 feet (holds and feet make it forgiving). Continue up on a mixed bag of fingers, hands, and jugs to a large belay ledge. 2 bolt belay.
pitch 4) Stacked blocks in a chimney get you into a stemming section to surmount the overhanging slot. Pull over and scramble up low angle cracks to another 2 bolt belay.
pitch 5) Walk back into the corner, and down to gain a flared v slot with finger sized gear for protection. Once out of this continue up perfect hands to the top. 2 bolt belay.
The entire route can be rapped comfortably with a 70m rope, but realize you'll be down climbing the 30ft 4th class start if you only bring one cord. If uncomfortable with the down climb simply tag up your extra line to the first belay station, and leave it there. Then perform single rope raps until pitch 1 where you'll tie them together for the big down climb avoiding rap.
Gear: singles to .4 camalot. 2 each to #4 camalot, and a single #5 will protect the climb well.
pitch 1) Climb a short ow off the ground into hands entering a chimney. Exit the chimney on hands up a 40 foot corner that pinches down toward the end. This pitch feels more 5.10 to me. 2 bolt belay.
pitch 2) Hands and big hands all the way. 2 bolt belay.
pitch 3) Climb a 6" ow for 10 feet (holds and feet make it forgiving). Continue up on a mixed bag of fingers, hands, and jugs to a large belay ledge. 2 bolt belay.
pitch 4) Stacked blocks in a chimney get you into a stemming section to surmount the overhanging slot. Pull over and scramble up low angle cracks to another 2 bolt belay.
pitch 5) Walk back into the corner, and down to gain a flared v slot with finger sized gear for protection. Once out of this continue up perfect hands to the top. 2 bolt belay.
The entire route can be rapped comfortably with a 70m rope, but realize you'll be down climbing the 30ft 4th class start if you only bring one cord. If uncomfortable with the down climb simply tag up your extra line to the first belay station, and leave it there. Then perform single rope raps until pitch 1 where you'll tie them together for the big down climb avoiding rap.
Gear: singles to .4 camalot. 2 each to #4 camalot, and a single #5 will protect the climb well.
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