Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,213 total · 67/month
Shared By: dlasley on Jan 28, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Awesome easy trad. Great intro to Zion climbing for beginners of trad and multi pitch. Is in the shade till 2PM in the summer.

pitch 1) Climb a short ow off the ground into hands entering a chimney. Exit the chimney on hands up a 40 foot corner that pinches down toward the end. This pitch feels more 5.10 to me. 2 bolt belay.

pitch 2) Hands and big hands all the way. 2 bolt belay.

pitch 3) Climb a 6" ow for 10 feet (holds and feet make it forgiving). Continue up on a mixed bag of fingers, hands, and jugs to a large belay ledge. 2 bolt belay.

pitch 4) Stacked blocks in a chimney get you into a stemming section to surmount the overhanging slot. Pull over and scramble up low angle cracks to another 2 bolt belay.

pitch 5) Walk back into the corner, and down to gain a flared v slot with finger sized gear for protection. Once out of this continue up perfect hands to the top. 2 bolt belay.

The entire route can be rapped comfortably with a 70m rope, but realize you'll be down climbing the 30ft 4th class start if you only bring one cord. If uncomfortable with the down climb simply tag up your extra line to the first belay station, and leave it there. Then perform single rope raps until pitch 1 where you'll tie them together for the big down climb avoiding rap.

Gear: singles to .4 camalot. 2 each to #4 camalot, and a single #5 will protect the climb well.

Location

From the bathrooms, walk along the paved path to the tourist board. Hop the fence and walk along the climbers trail leading you to the shaded side of the arete. Scramble up the rock through 2 trees to a ledge and the first pitch.

Protection

Solid gear from beginning to end. Bolted belay stations. Rapped all the way home with a 70m

Photos