Avg: 3.1 from 80 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||6,213 total · 67/month|
|Shared By:||dlasley on Jan 28, 2014|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
pitch 1) Climb a short ow off the ground into hands entering a chimney. Exit the chimney on hands up a 40 foot corner that pinches down toward the end. This pitch feels more 5.10 to me. 2 bolt belay.
pitch 2) Hands and big hands all the way. 2 bolt belay.
pitch 3) Climb a 6" ow for 10 feet (holds and feet make it forgiving). Continue up on a mixed bag of fingers, hands, and jugs to a large belay ledge. 2 bolt belay.
pitch 4) Stacked blocks in a chimney get you into a stemming section to surmount the overhanging slot. Pull over and scramble up low angle cracks to another 2 bolt belay.
pitch 5) Walk back into the corner, and down to gain a flared v slot with finger sized gear for protection. Once out of this continue up perfect hands to the top. 2 bolt belay.
The entire route can be rapped comfortably with a 70m rope, but realize you'll be down climbing the 30ft 4th class start if you only bring one cord. If uncomfortable with the down climb simply tag up your extra line to the first belay station, and leave it there. Then perform single rope raps until pitch 1 where you'll tie them together for the big down climb avoiding rap.
Gear: singles to .4 camalot. 2 each to #4 camalot, and a single #5 will protect the climb well.