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Routes in Lower Cliff

Balance Dyno, The V9 7C
Full House V5-6 6C+
Smear Tactics V0- 4-
USS Cyclops V3-4 6A+
USS Nereus V0 4
Type: Boulder
FA: Jay Conway, 10/2013
Page Views: 197 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jan 28, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The Balance Dyno is the most unlikely of boulder problems. Start on the left corner of the steepest part of the Lower Wall.

Clamber up onto a ledge and throw a left toe-hook into the big horizontal crack. This should allow you to stand up straight. Then grab a nothing crimp with your left hand, and jump up to a sloping ledge. Hold the considerable outward swing and match the ledge. The crux is getting your feet established on the wall and reaching for a crimp just below the lip.

The dyno is definitely a crowd-pleasing move, but getting established on the face after the dyno is incredibly awkward and maybe a bit height dependent.

Protection

Multiple pads and spotters.

Photos

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