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Routes in Heel-Toe Wall

Heel-Toe, Ramp Start WI4 M6
Scrappy's Child T WI3 M6
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 243 total · 4/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Jan 26, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Scrappy's Child is a fun mixed route on the far right of the Heel-Toe Wall. When it is in shape, it offers fun thinly iced corners up good rock. Most people will climb it in two pitches as with all the ledges it would have a lot of rope drag.

Pitch 1 - The start in the beta picture of Eastern Sierra Ice, shows Scrappy's Child starts right of the Heel-Toe starting flow up rock and climbing over the boulder between the Heel-Toe start and the ledge where the rescue litter is. A better start is to climb the Heel-Toe starting flow and then stem up an icy chimney behind the boulder. From the top of the chimney, a short step right leads to a steep icy crack system and a large snow-covered ledge.

Pitch 2 - A narrow ice runnel leads to a steep rock step with a small tree. A steep corner with multiple cracks ends with a loose rock covered ledge. From the ledge, one more steep corner climbing a detached pillar to the top-out.

Location

The route is located between Chouinard Falls and the Heel-Toe Wall. It is on the far right side of Heel-Toe Wall, starting either just right of the Heel-Toe starting flow or on the flow itself.

Protection

Cams #.5-#3, set of nuts, stubby ice screws, a couple pins (lost arrows and small angles). Lots of long runners to reduce drag over the multiple ledges.

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