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Grace and Danger

5.11b R, Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: FFA June 30, 1991 by Dave Sowerby
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > (2) Hanging Gardens

Description

Grace and Danger starts out on easy columns roughly ten feet to the left of Loose Block Overhang. Scamper up the columns to the left side of the slab at which point you can place the gear which will protect you through the crux. The gear is great (#.4 C4) but it’s so far left of the climbing that a fall from the crux will result in a hard swing into the dihedral. Place the gear, say your prayers and cast off to the right at the very bottom of the slab. The crux is short and bouldery. Work your way up the slab until you can grab the mini-jug that is somewhat hidden on the right side of the vegetated crack that slashes across the face. Plug a small cam into the mini-jug wherever your fingers aren’t residing (#2 C3 for me). Above the crack, the climbing eases considerably though the finish isn’t trivial.

Protection

Finger sized cams. Fixed anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Grace and Danger
[Hide Photo] Grace and Danger
Climbing on Grace and Danger. Mid-crux
[Hide Photo] Climbing on Grace and Danger. Mid-crux
Grace and Danger
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Better yet, skip the sketchy lead and put a top rope up by climbing Loose Block... :) May 15, 2016
[Hide Comment] The climber in the pic is to the left of where I climbed. I reached left and placed gear in the same place, but had my right hand on the bottom of the arete and slapped my way up until I could get my foot up onto the face. It's a fun TR if you don't feel up to the lead. Apr 6, 2021