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Routes in Dry Creek Spire

Black Arrow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Creek Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Ending, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 982 total, 21/month
Shared By: marcin ksok on Jan 26, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Really nice moderate route to a great summit on good rock, interesting climbing with a bit of everything.
P.1 Up protectable slab to single belay bolt, right under a bulge into crack system to a ledge with a belay bolt.
P.2 Up the wide crack, left to crack in a corner to the ridge, left at ridge on easy terrain to a 5.6 step and anchors.
Both pitches can be broken up, but with sparse placements and runners rope drag is not an issue.

Location

Start at the top of the saddle between Dry Creek Spire and Beer Bottle Spire.
2 single rope raps.

Protection

single to 4"

Photos

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AJay H
  5.8
AJay H  
  5.8
Just sent this route yesterday. Park at the paved parking lot everyone uses for devils bridge. On the approach head north from the parkinglot for about 50 meters then take a right onto the wash. When the wash splits go left. After another 25 min of that wash cut up right. The start is on the saddle between Dry Creek Spire and Beer Bottle Spire. Its a poorly protected 5.7 ish up to the first belay ledge which is bolted. It is possible to keep climbing to the second bolt but I recommend starting a new pitch here. After the first bolt is janky crack that is well protected but honestly felt more like a 5.9+ (if only due to the mental aspect.) After this is a class 3 traverse across a lip and a mantle onto another bolted belay ledge. The next 15 feet is had to protect so decking is a worry but its easy climbing to a ledge you can scramble up. Tie into the tree. Some would call the route here, but we went up another 20ft left up the ridgeline to chains. If going from the tree, the rappel can be made in 2 raps, single rope. Go to the second bolt, then straight to the ground. 60m rope leaves you a spare 5 feet of rope to the ground. Feb 15, 2016
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
I did this last weekend and it was great fun. The guide book was super helpful but I wanted to throw up a few things I learned. It took us about 40 minutes to make the approach, getting from the wash to the saddle between the spires was scrappy. We did the climb in 4 pitches due to rope drag and communication. I could see doing it in two if you managed both of those issues. I climbed the roof straight overhead of the first bolt which protected nicely but felt much more like 10-. The route proper steps around this bulge into a book feature. Mar 31, 2015