PRINT: Rock Climb Handicapable, Golden

Handicapable

5.12b, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 65 votes
FA: D. Montgomery & L. Stern, 1/14
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Armory

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful Details

Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.

Description

Handicapable - someone who is crippled or handicapped but takes offense at those terms and prefers "handicapable." I bolted and sent this route while recovering from a broken ankle.

It has bouldery and gymnastic moves through a steep shield of rock. Great climbing, I just wish it was longer!

Location

It is the furthest left route at the Armory, just left of Off the Couch.

Protection

5 bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Red route is Handicapable.<br>
Blue route is Off the Couch.

Red route is Handicapable. Blue route is Off the Couch.

Jug before the biz.

A boulder sequence section of Handicapable.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Samuelson
Colorado

5.12-

Tried this one out today, hot off the presses! Good route. The movement isn't straightforward, and I thought the boulder problem was fun - cool heel hook! Jan 26, 2014

Geoff U
Centennial, CO

5.12b

Super fun considering the shortness - no heel hook for me, though. Feb 19, 2015

drewhouser

5.12b

I too wish this were longer; however, had it been, I may not have sent! Essentially a 15 foot boulder problem guards the anchors, easy going before and after. A great deal of fun! Apr 5, 2015

Deredacted Young
Denver, CO

A bunch of us got on this today. Great route! Thanks for establishing it! But not sure if the intent was just to have the hangers and bolts for anchors, there were no links like its 5.10 neighbor to the right when we climbing it today. Were they forgotten or recently taken down? I had one quicklink to donate, but suggest bringing 3 more quicklinks to make it lower/rap friendly.

Also, the 3rd and 4th bolts' nuts kept coming loose. We didn't have a wrench to tighten, but suggest bringing that too (and maybe some glue). All the bolts above #2 could use some tightening/glueing.

Thanks again for establishing, Montgomery/Stern. Oct 25, 2015

Monty
Golden, CO

5.12b

Hi Derek, I'm glad you guys liked this little number. We originally left 2 quicklinks and 2 biners on both of these routes figuring that people would leave them be, but it sounds like someone thought those biners were booty... lame! Those stainless studs have a tendency to loosen up over time. I'll try to get over there with a torque wrench soon. Oct 25, 2015

Craig Faulhaber

There are two really great sequences on this climb -- I really enjoyed it. Another great route from the Montgomerys! Mar 15, 2018

Aleks Gro

A video for those interested: youtube.com/watch?v=-8KB7dk…. Feb 20, 2022

Prav C
Arvada, CO

5.12b

Great route for a boulderer! As much as I wanted the last bolt clipped before the crux move, I found it harder to clip than it's worth. The fall is safe, and I took it many times.

If you are on the shorter side and find the big huck to the jug spanny, there are a few alternate betas that avoid it entirely! Oct 16, 2024