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Routes in Lost Wall Area

Event Horizon S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Harmonica Jam T V0- 4-
In The Beginning There Were Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return To Balance S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
We Be Joes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
What, A Harmonica Convention? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Rober Price, Steve Lowry
Page Views: 242 total, 5/month
Shared By: Superclimber on Jan 23, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

I think at one time this route may have been called Mud Slide. Not sure where I heard or read that. Nevertheless, the guide books refer to it as We Be Joes.

This climb consists of two parallel cracks that ascend the vertical wall of a large obscure cave. The left crack fizzles out before the top. The right crack starts out hands and becomes fingers near the top. The rock quality is generally pretty good, but it tops out into a semi-rotten trough that is pretty much always filled with debris. About 4 years prior to this writing I cleaned out the crack which was quite packed with mud and debris. As of about a year and a half ago it was still clean. Honestly, this is a pretty good crack and worth doing.

Please don't be tempted to sling the large egg shaped boulder that is balancing on the edge of the trough above We Be Joes and use it as an anchor. I absolutely would not trust it to stay put. There is another larger boulder behind the spooky one.

Location

To find this route. Take the Lost Wall/Center Wall Trail to the large triangular Lost Wall boulder near the main dome. Look down into the caves a short distance from the climber's right side of Lost Wall. You're looking for a large room with parallel cracks going up the wall. You can't access the cave from here, but at least you will know where the cave is located. Then, you can follow the Main Dome toward Strawberry Jam and Texas Flakes. The top out from We Be Joes is very close to the bottom of Strawberry Jam and Texas Direct. From below Texas Direct (the slab below the Texas Flakes anchors)wander down into the caves and boulders to seek out the entrance into the cave. That's about the most specific I can get. Once you spot the cave from near Lost Wall, you shouldn't have too much trouble sniffing out the entrance.

Protection

A single rack with cams from small to BD#2. A head lamp is helpful, but it can be done without one.

Photos

Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Deserves and extra star vs. the 1-star rating in the O'Grady guidebook IMO, due to the crack quality and epic location. Stellar jamming in the right crack with interesting help from the left. Top was super dirty (leaves & dirt) for me and will likely be the same when you climb it too. Do it! Jan 18, 2016