Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Tony Lamiche
Page Views: 2,566 total · 43/month
Shared By: Andy Liu on Jan 23, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Definitely one of the best problems in Bishop if not anywhere.

Sit start on small crimps and climb up into the good flake undercling. Continue onto the lip, make a couple of moves left and right, figure out how to get your foot to face level, and then mantel (or throw) to the big smiley jug. Careful on the top-out.

This problem can be more difficult for those who are either really tall or really short. It's probably helpful to be average-height and flexible. There's also a variety of ways to do this problem.

Protection

Pads.

Photos

Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
  V8-
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
  V8-
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
Although Tony Lamiche gets credit for reclimbing the problem in it's current state after the hold above the lip broke, the original FA was by Michi Tresch probably back in 1999 or so. Michi's version was more along the lines of V8 and didn't see many repeats before the hold broke and the problem lay dormant until Lamiche did it. Jan 28, 2014
Danny Stirton
Los Angeles, CA
Danny Stirton   Los Angeles, CA
V8-? Any reason for knocking off more than three grades Andy? Apr 13, 2017
Daniel Winsor
Bishop, CA
Daniel Winsor   Bishop, CA
V7 Andy?? Haha to the lip maybe... Mar 1, 2018
Mario Delisle
Victoria, BC
Mario Delisle   Victoria, BC
Recently broke the hold after the larger flake right before the lip.

There’s still a crimp jug but not longer the rest of the hold to toe hook off of for getting the foot over the lip if you used said beta.

Everything still goes but Andy’s beta (in video from 2014) will either no longer work with what’s left or be harder. Nov 17, 2018