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Routes in Macabre Wall

Macabre Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Macabre Wall I T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macabre Wall Proper T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 450 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jeff Lowe/Greg Lowe
Page Views: 1,394 total, 29/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on Jan 23, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

When this was first freed in 1967 (68?) it would have been a contender for one of the hardest routes in the nation.

While there are many good variations to the wall ranging from 5.8 to 5.12a, climbing through the 4 roofs is the most classic.

  • Also, it should be noted, so you know what to expect when you get into it, that this route in general consists of fun, difficult sections separated by really long wandering 5.5 climbing on quartzite choss - but it's still an Ogden classic

Look at topo for route path. Build belays wherever you're comfortable

Pitches 1 and 2 (~130 feet each): Easy face climbing with some strenuous roof moves involving only 2-3 hard moves then back to easy face. I usually belay for the top of pitch 1 at a long narrow ledge about 50-60 feet above the first roof and sometimes relocate belay to the just below the 2nd roof. I usually build a belay for the top of the second roof at a stance about 20 feet above it.
This page refers to the 5.10 roof on pitch 1.

Pitch 3: really long 5.5 climbing straight up above belay then traverse about 40-50 feet right, then back up the corner to belay just below the FOOPs roof hand crack. Belay takes finger sized gear up to 1.5".

Pitch 4: FOOPs roof (5.11+). Jam up this awesome roof crack through overhanging #2 camalots hand jams then traverse out the roof dihedral through wide hand jams on glassy feet. This roof is 15 feet of overhanging hand jams. Usually just belay on top with whatever gear is left.

Relocate the belay to the right side of the obvious Macabre Roof.

Pitch 5: The piece de resistance! Follow the flake on the roof past some hand jams through a block then move up and right through V-shaped notch. There is a piton about the point when you go straight up. Always be suspect of fixed pins, especially in quartzite. Belay at a good stance at a fixed nut supplementing it with thin hand and finger sized gear.

Pitch 6: continue up 5.6 corner until it forces you to skirt it to the left.

Location

Middle of the Macabre Wall. Start hiking from the trailhead across from the Catholic church and make your way from dirt turnaround area on the canal road up and left alongside some broken brown band of gneiss. The descent is a hike off to the north trying to locate the descent gully (2nd class) between the Macabre Wall and the Nature Center Wall.

Protection

1-2 sets of cams from fingers to wide hands and a set of nuts. If doing FOOPs roof, it is helpful to have two #3 camalots or a #3 and #4.

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