Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA Jeff Lowe 1970?
Page Views: 3,903 total · 59/month
Shared By: hkennedy on Jan 23, 2014
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

The Lowe-Spark is a free var of an old Jeff Lowe aid line. This route has it all from steep roofs to super thin face climbing. By far one of the best alpine rock routes in the US!! This thing needs to get some traffic. FFA Team -- Justin Griffin, Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster September 2013

P1: 5.6R corner to slab climbing with not much gear to a good ledge.

P2: 5.9R face climbing. From the belay ledge trend left until a thin crack leads back right -- some Jeff Lowe pitons are on this pitch, cool history for sure!!

P3: 5.10R face climbing strait up from the belay -- there are some old bolts to the right, do not follow them. Belay is on 2 bolts just underneath the huge roof

P4: 5.13 A0 1st crux pitch -- start off with wild 5.12 climbing off the belay protected by bolts to a left leaning traverse with cams. Long slings help with the drag -- climb strait up to a 4 bolt 5.13 traverse just above the lip of the roof. This pitch still hasn't been fully free climbed -- all the moves have been done but not linked. Belay on 2 bolts at a small stance. MEGA PITCH!!

P5: Unreal 5.12 climbing with bolts and gear with two amazing crux sections. After the second crux follow the left trending crack to the slung block belay.

P6: A short 5.9 pitch that gains a nice ledge just bellow the second crux pitch. Belay on 2 bolts on a good stance.

P7: 5.13 second crux -- this pitch is as technical as it gets! Natural gear just off the belay to 5.12 face climbing with bolts. Wild mantle moves and steaming leads to the crux -- desperate boulder problem on the edge of an arete to a hard mantle finish. Thin 5.11 slab climbing to a pumpy roof with #3/#4 Cams. Truly amazing climbing!! Belay on a great ledge with 2 bolts

P8: 5.10+ crack climbing up twin cracks. Natural gear anchor on a ramp.

P9: 5.10+ face/crack climbing to a strange flare section. Belay on small ledge with natural gear.

P10: Burly 5.11 wide climbing right out of the gate to a small roof and then amazing 5.11+ fingers in a corner. Belay on slung blocks.

P11/12: Easy 5.8 and easier terrain to the summit.

You can walk off Haystack or rappel the route with two 70 meter ropes

Protection

Doubles in fingers/hand size cams, #3 & #4 Cams, set of wires -- the purple C3 is helpful on the first 5.13 pitch.

Photos