Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||FA Jeff Lowe 1970?|
|Page Views:||5,149 total · 55/month|
|Shared By:||hkennedy on Jan 23, 2014|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
P1: 5.6R corner to slab climbing with not much gear to a good ledge.
P2: 5.9R face climbing. From the belay ledge trend left until a thin crack leads back right -- some Jeff Lowe pitons are on this pitch, cool history for sure!!
P3: 5.10R face climbing strait up from the belay -- there are some old bolts to the right, do not follow them. Belay is on 2 bolts just underneath the huge roof
P4: 5.13 A0 1st crux pitch -- start off with wild 5.12 climbing off the belay protected by bolts to a left leaning traverse with cams. Long slings help with the drag -- climb strait up to a 4 bolt 5.13 traverse just above the lip of the roof. This pitch still hasn't been fully free climbed -- all the moves have been done but not linked. Belay on 2 bolts at a small stance. MEGA PITCH!!
P5: Unreal 5.12 climbing with bolts and gear with two amazing crux sections. After the second crux follow the left trending crack to the slung block belay.
P6: A short 5.9 pitch that gains a nice ledge just bellow the second crux pitch. Belay on 2 bolts on a good stance.
P7: 5.13 second crux -- this pitch is as technical as it gets! Natural gear just off the belay to 5.12 face climbing with bolts. Wild mantle moves and steaming leads to the crux -- desperate boulder problem on the edge of an arete to a hard mantle finish. Thin 5.11 slab climbing to a pumpy roof with #3/#4 Cams. Truly amazing climbing!! Belay on a great ledge with 2 bolts
P8: 5.10+ crack climbing up twin cracks. Natural gear anchor on a ramp.
P9: 5.10+ face/crack climbing to a strange flare section. Belay on small ledge with natural gear.
P10: Burly 5.11 wide climbing right out of the gate to a small roof and then amazing 5.11+ fingers in a corner. Belay on slung blocks.
P11/12: Easy 5.8 and easier terrain to the summit.
You can walk off Haystack or rappel the route with two 70 meter ropes