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Routes in Lost Wall Area

Event Horizon S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Harmonica Jam T V0- 4-
In The Beginning There Were Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return To Balance S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
We Be Joes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
What, A Harmonica Convention? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: See the description below.
Page Views: 745 total · 13/month
Shared By: Superclimber on Jan 22, 2014 with updates from Bill Gooch
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

The Dome Driver Manual states that a line with 2 bolts was first established on this boulder with no first ascentionist noted.  This route was later established by Bill Gooch to the right of the original line, with the approval of the Central Texas Climbing Committee and the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department.

Follow the line of bolts up the right side of the boulder. From the top anchors multiple ropes can be hung and many variations are possible, making this a really fun place to climb.

Location

This route is found on the right side of Lost Wall, which is the large trianglar boulder below Center Wall. Follow the Lost Wall/Center Wall trail to this large obvious boulder located very close to the Main Dome.

Protection

4 bolts and a double bolted top anchor. This route is well protected by Erock standards, but don't blow the clip up at the second bolt.

Photos

Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
This whole area does not see the traffic it deserves... but that makes it all the better. Great place to get away from the crowd. Event Horizon is a fantastic crystal route that will test your mental fortitude (clipping the semi-desperate second bolt). Must do. Worthwhile to leave a rope up and run some laps on the center of the Lost Wall which offers good training on friction and crystal face climbing. Jan 18, 2016
The route was first bolted on lead by a guy named Mark -- can't remember last name -- who worked at UPS in San Antonio. Late 1986 or early 1987. He hand drilled two quarter inch bolts about 10' apart while standing on crystals. I belayed him. Jul 3, 2017
Event Horizon takes a different and more difficult line from the original. The first bolt of the earlier line was 10 feet or so to the left of the EH line, and the second old bolt was close to, but still to the left of EH. Jun 13, 2018
Superclimber
  5.10a/b
Superclimber  
  5.10a/b
Bill, I very much appreciate your ongoing stewardship in the park. However, I feel that considering the slabby nature of the climbing at Erock and the size of the boulder in question placing a new route in such close proximity to the original forever alters the first climb, even if it is forgotten. History matters.

This is my position and from here I'll leave it to the administrators to decide. Jun 14, 2018
Chris, I don't disagree with you, although I'm not sure what you're suggesting, if anything. FWIW, the original route can be restored by way of a new route application if someone so desires, and had we been able to identify and contact the original FA party before removing the old bolts, we would have done so. We did try at the time, but failed to identify who it was, and now that Stephen Andrew has chimed in we have more info but still not the identity of the climber. Jun 18, 2018
Superclimber
  5.10a/b
Superclimber  
  5.10a/b
Bill, I am not suggesting, but rather I am bluntly saying that you erased an existing route and then bolted your own in very close proximity to the original. That is the definition of retro-bolting whether you like it or not. You retro-bolted the original climb that was first established on Lost Wall. Sep 11, 2018

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