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Routes in Aguja Espina

Molestados Por Las Vacas T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: K. Heatwole & G. Dooley, 2013
Page Views: 548 total, 12/month
Shared By: kirkadirka on Jan 20, 2014
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Perhaps the best moderately difficult route up Aguja Espina.

P1) Climb up the beautiful thin crack system passing a couple of small roofs before reaching a small ledge system. Step slightly down and right to belay. Amazing pitch. Gear anchor (5.11b, 30m).

P2) The crux. Follow the obvious thin crack as it arcs up and right towards a small roof feature. Pull past the roof and you are through the crux, follow the now vertical crack system on 5.10+/11- terrain to a pedestal on the right for a spectacular belay perch. Beware some suspect rock (can be avoided) just before stepping right onto the pedestal. The gear through the crux section is great but difficult to place. Brilliant pitch. Gear anchor (5.12c, 45m).

P3) From the belay, avoid the tempting (but hollow) large blocks immediately above and follow a steep ramp system up and right. This gradually steepens into a shallow, left facing dihedral. Continue up to a large ledge where you will encounter a set of rap anchors for the standard rappel route. Another great pitch (5.11b, 40m).

P4) From here you can either rappel or merge with the last pitch of the Mundo Interior/La Matuasta routes. Climb the friendly offwidth placing your big gear (#4 and optional #5 here). Above the offwidth head up and slightly left to reach the north ridge, then follow the bolt ladder to the summit anchors. Nice finish (5.10d, 40m).

DESCENT: Follow the standard rappel route as per Mundo Interior, making 3 double rope rappels.

Location

Located on the West face of Aguja Espina. Approach the same as Mundo Interior. Find the base of La Matuasta and locate the thin crack system just right that goes through several small roofs, marking the first pitch. The second (crux) pitch should be obvious arcing up and right from the top of the first pitch.

Protection

Double set of Camalots from #.1 to #2. Singles of #3 and #4. Optional #5 for the offwidth pitch. Full set of nuts from micro to regular. 2 ropes of at least 50 meters.
kirkadirka
Boulder
 
kirkadirka   Boulder
 
The crux pitch has yet to see a clean lead. I freed all of the moves but was not able to put it all together. Go get it! Jan 22, 2014