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Routes in Geriatric Ward

Bad Memory V0+ 4+
Depends V1+ 5
Fern Gully V3-4 6A+
Safety bar arete V0+ 4+
Swampy Pants V0-1 4+
Walker V-easy 3
You Might Not Make it to the Gables V4 6B X
Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Alex Krampovitis
Page Views: 188 total · 4/month
Shared By: FooDawg on Jan 20, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

The line follows some decent, grippy holds and high feet, to an obvious horizontal crack. This is where the crux is, from the crack, you need to paste feet high on the wall and commit to two small crimps, until you make it to the right facing flake, from there it's easy street, with all positive holds, over the round lip. Suggest you either TR or practice the moves on TR before making an attempt.

Video of the original ascent (wide angle of the GoPro does the height of this line no justice; it's very high):
youtu.be/Wtb24nVlte4

Location

From the Granite St parking lot, make your way down the green trail towards fern gully (right at trail T, cross the two bridges, cross the swampy road/river crossing), then follow the band down until you reach the really high slab walls. It is the obvious, scrubbed line/holds on the wall.

Protection

Bring at least 3-4 pads lol. I guess you could use some gear to protect the crux if you want in the horizontal, but the original line was a solo, so honestly I don't have any beta on piece sizes (plus this rock tends to be pebbly and kitty litter like consistency, so be careful trusting gear).

Photos

FooDawg
New Haven, CT
 
FooDawg   New Haven, CT
 
V4 is a potential rating... I would love to hear from others who have done this, so we can get a proper rating for it. Thanks for the feedback! Jan 20, 2014
T Roper
the gym
T Roper   the gym
I'll check it out next time. Its the east facing cliff fairly close to the old folks home right? Jan 23, 2014
FooDawg
New Haven, CT
 
FooDawg   New Haven, CT
 
Yeah, that main wall where fern gully is, just follow the cliff band towards the road (Granite Rd), it's a fairly obvious line in the wall (think those two dead trees are still up against the wall too lol). This was a fun send when I did it. Let me know what you think! Jan 25, 2014

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