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Routes in US Highway 550

Bear Creek Falls WI4
Crater Creek Falls WI3-4
Highway Robbery T WI3
Scratch, The WI4+ M8+
Seven Year Itch T WI5-6
Type: Mixed, Ice, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: B. Kiessel, T. Ferrell, B. Gardner, I. Allison
Page Views: 493 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 19, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route climbs two variations to 'Seven Year Itch'.
There are 4 steps on 'Seven Year Itch'. Steps 2 and 3 usually form. Steps 1 and 4 don't always form.

Pitch 1: Look for bolts to the right of the ice on the first step. Climb up and left to the bolt with gear. Traverse left to another bolt and the up past another bolt to a tree belay, M7+, 50'

Pitch 2: Climb the ice on the second step. Then slog up the the third step and climb that as well. Belay at a tree, WI 3+, 230'

Walk up to the overhanging rock looking for bolts to start pitch 3.

Pitch 3: Start left of the first bolt climbing up then right. Follow the bolts a bolted anchor on a ledge under the big roof. M8+, 60'.

Pitch 4: Traverse right on the ledge to a bolt in the roof. Continue onto the ice and to the top of the climb, WI 4+ 120'

Pitches 2 and 4 can be split up.

Descent: rappel the route with a single 70 meter rope.

Location

About 17 miles north of Durango, the route should be easy to spot. Park on the side of US Highway 550 and hike directly up to the climb. The approach takes about 1½ -3 hours depending on conditions. The approach crosses private land, so please be respectful.

Protection

Single set of cams from #0.3-2 Camalot for the start of pitch 1. Screws, draws, 70m rope, and material to replace anchors.

Photos

Ben Kiessel  
 
Short video:
youtube.com/watch?v=9lMY3ot… Feb 1, 2014
BGardner
Seattle, WA
BGardner   Seattle, WA
Nice job!! Glad to see all that work pay off. Jan 22, 2014