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Routes in Rockfellow Dome

Abracadaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Zzzzzs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inner Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jabberwocky T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Knead Me 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Labyrinth, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lumpy Unmentionables T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Sensory Desuetude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sound of One Hand Thrashing T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Unknown S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (NE Face) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown (S Face) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: SA and ?
Page Views: 1,121 total · 23/month
Shared By: Geir on Jan 18, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

This is a very fun line that lies on the SW and S faces of Rockfellow. The climb has good rock and interesting climbing, particularly on the first two pitches.

Pitch 1 (130', 5.11): Climb the thin crack protected by bolts and gear. Ends at a two bolt anchor next to a right-leaning ramp.

Pitch 2 (120', 5.10+): Go up the right leaning ramp, then climb straight up a water streak with chickeheads. Bear right following bolts to a two bolt hanging belay.

Pitch 3 (85', easy 5th class): From the hanging belay move directly right to a flat platform, then head slightly downhill and slightly right for about 30'. Clip a bolt and make exposed moves along a ledge for another 30' or so. A two bolt anchor will be on the main dome up and to your left.

Pitch 4 (5.11, 140'): Follow bolts up and left. Work through the crux and continue up on easier ground to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 5 (5.10, 65'): Follow bolts up to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 6 (5.11, 65'): Climb bolts on the face to your left to the top.

Descent:

Rap to the top of pitch 5, then rap 150' straight down parallel to the route to a pair of anchors right of pitch 4, rap 85' down and right to a pair of anchors located by the labyrinth. Then rap 130' to the ground.

Location

Starts at a thin crack on the left at the south exit of the Inner Passage.

Protection

Mostly bolts. Stoppers and Singles to #3 Camalot is plenty.

Photos

So glad to see that more people are getting on this route. It is one of my favorites on the Rockfellow Dome. The easiest way to get off the route is to rap it right back to your packs at the base (double ropes). No need to rap Abra on the other side as Geir suggested and you can avoid the bushwack back from the Labyrinth. I finally have this all detailed in the East Side guidebook so next season these routes will finally be easier to navigate. Mar 30, 2017
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
 
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
 


This should get you there Feb 22, 2017
Justin Headley   Tucson
Geir, can you expand on the approach beta a little more? JMo and I tried to find this today and couldn't. Feb 20, 2017
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Thanks Paul! I updated the pitch ratings and descent based on your feedback.

Thanks!
Geir Feb 7, 2017
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
 
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
 
Some notes from a recent ascent -

This climb is very well protected with bolts and I felt comfortable pushing my limits leading it. Very much a sport-style route, we placed maybe 3 or 4 cams.

Pitch 1 is a really cool technical pitch, pretty hard for 10+. We got the rope pinched in the crack in the roof 20 feet up making for heinous rope drag. Should be possible to prevent by placing a piece just above the lip of the roof, whereas we protected in the crack on the bottom side of the roof.

For the last pitch you want to move the belay down into a nice sandy slot left of the anchor for the 5th pitch. This pitch felt as hard as anything on the climb to me.

Rap Beta: We rappelled down this side of the dome ending up in the chasm that is the start of the labyrinth. Rap 1: 70 feet back down to pitch 5 anchor. Rap 2: 150 feet to an anchor that is above and climbers right of the start of Pitch 4 (visible when you are belaying the leader on pitch 4). Tough pull on this rap. Rap 3: 90 feet straight down to giant ledge on a wedged block. Rap 4: 150 feet down into the chasm. All anchors in good shape, we replaced tat with biners on last rappel station. Escape the chasm and walk back around to your packs in 10 minutes or less. Feb 6, 2017